#1, possibly you are really running hot with a partially blocked radiator ?
#2, the system should expand into the expansion tank when hot anddraw back
into the system from the expansion tank as it cools down. so i'd suspect
the cap is the culprit! could you have a cap for a system that does not
have an expansion tank wich would not allow coolant to be drawn back into
the system? or a cap that is just plain shot? i'd try the cheap and simple
repair of replacing the cap first!
here is another LBC thing to check! on earlier european and japanese cars
the rad caps were a tiny bit longer than modern day caps! the filler necks
were deeper. (the distance from the top of neck where the cap seals the
coolant from the outside world to the bottom of the neck where the cap seals
the coolant from escapeing from the system to the either over flow tube or
the expansion tank is a slight bit deeper than the very common type of necks
we see now.) these types of filler necks require a specific depth cap to
properly seal the system! if a system does not properly hold the designed
pressure it will over heat in a heart beat! the higher the pressure of a
system the higher the boiling point. that is why today's modern systems use
a 17lb. plus rated cap and temp gauges read well up over 220 degrees before
they indicate an overheating in their markings on the dash. now our cars
do not really respond well to this high pressure without being properly set
up. but a properly rated cap on the system with a clean rad. core will work
just as the engineers had designed it to. but the monkey wrench in the
system is no one mentioned that there are at least 2 difrent depth filler
necks and a late style cap on an early style filler neck does not seal
properly wich dropps the boiling point and creates an overheating car wich
with a proper cap would not be overheating.
so all this being said you might not need the deeper style cap but i think
your system is not properly expanding and contracting coolant. this is all
controlled by the rad cap. be positive the hose between the rad and
overflow is securly clamped on both ends too! one other thing to try is
have a rad pressure tester put on the system. and run the car! see if it
is generating pressure from a head gasket leak or try running it cold with
the fill plug out of the rad looking for air bubbles pushing from the
system, or pull the plugs and look for 1 very-very clean plug wich would
indicate a possible coolant leak into a combustion chamber. a head gasket /
coolant leak does not always manifest itself as an oil pan full of
white/gray goo or couds of white smoke. but i'd do the cheapeasy rad cap
replacement first and go for a drive....see what transpires.
chuck.
let us know whatcha find...please?
:)
----- Original Message -----
From "Thompson, Michael (CCI-Atlanta)" <Michael.Thompson at cox.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 30, 2002 6:55 AM
Subject: Coolant Leakage
> Ok...here's a perplexing problem for me that maybe some of you can help me
with. I have disappearing coolant. I KNOW where it's coming out (reservoir
overflow)...but I don't know why. Basically, I can fill the radiator up,
then I fill the reservoir to it's specified level...BUT the level in the
radiator (with the engine off) never seems to stay at the top. It always
sinks about 2 inches down. The water comes out of the reservoir overflow,
which is about 2 inches below the top of the radiator level as far as water
level is concerned. So..ok...the radiator reservoir sits a little lower
than the radiator. (take a look at yours...I'm sure it's the same)
Anyways...when I start the motor...no more water leaks out past the 2 inch
drop when I filled the radiator up.....BUT....when the engine gets up to
temperature...it starts spitting water out of the overflow outlet in the
reservoir. It nearly empties out the radiator and overheats.
>
> Facts: 1. Had engine rebuilt less than 500 miles ago.
> 2. Changed thermostat twice, testing each of them just to make
sure.
> 3. Starts spitting once engine warms up and thermostat
opens...so there is obvious coolant flow.
> 4. NO white smoke out of exhaust.
> 5. Checked reservoir cap...seems in good shape. I checked the
spring against a new one...and they seemed to
have about the same tension...but I have not changed it yet. (next on the
list)
> 6. Head re-torqued to spec.
> 7. No water in the oil...at least that I can tell.
>
> If any of you'z guyz can help me out on this...I'd REALLY appreciate it.
<http://profiles.yahoo.com/iamthor3>
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Thompson
> '71 Spridget ( Natas a.k.a. 'lil Nate )
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