Hi gang,
I dropped the oil pan after work and could have the whole job done in a
few hours. Piece of cake sliding the new washers in place. Now the crank
won't walk on us. it must have had an 1/8" play. The main looked good,
so closed that back up. I now see the rod ends have fore and aft play in
them. Is this normal? I assumed as a result of the crank walking, some
material has been removed there and allows the rod ends to move. I
pulled the caps and am not pleased with the look of the bearings (some
scraping in them). I pulled #1 and #4. They are stamped .010 U/S, so I
measured the crank and sure enough somebody turned it .010 under. I also
found safety wires through the rod end bolts on #1 & #2, 3 & 4 have the
bend over tabs. Guess I'll order up a new set of .010 U/S and stick them
in. Since I have no idea how many miles were racked up on these
bearings, I'll give the shade tree rebuild a chance. The piston skirts
and what I can see of the cylinder walls as I pushed the pistons upward,
look good. I don't plan on a ton of miles in the next year. I'll
probably wipe the crank with some fine emery cloth just to be sure
there's no burrs or nicks and go for it by next Saturday. Done this a
couple times on other cars and they ran OK.
Dave & Bobbie Carpenter
Pittsburgh, PA
60 3000 "Healey Bits" (in more pieces than they built it from)
60 Bugeye "Little Bits" click the link below for pictures
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2z49v/bugeye.htm
Pictures from Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix
http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2z49v/pvgp.htm
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