Dave....
Providing it is known the block internal
water channels are reasonably clean and
free of scale, rust, etc. and it is known
the radiator is in good to excellent condition and your water temp.
gauge
is accurate:
Remove the thermostadt and go with a
blanking sleeve. Alternatively, remove
the guts from a thermostadt and install
what's left! Do this anytime outside air
temps will be more or less consistently
beyond 80F.
Install one of the many bladed plastic
"tropical" fans used on the later cars.
Drain and reverse flush the cooling system and fill with distilled
water, the
appropriate amount of Water Wetter
and a "conditioner" which will provide
water pump lube and rust and corrosion
protection. If you can't find a "conditioner",
use 15 per cent anti-freeze, but no more.
If you are not currently using one of the
more modern alum. "deep impeller" water
pumps, convert now. Get one without the
cylinder head/water pump. "bypass" fitting
and hose.
When winter comes and you re-install
the thermostadt, remember you have no
cyl. head/water pump "bypass" and drill
at least one 1/4" hole in the thermostadt
"plate" to provide a "bypass" in the event
of a thermostadt failing in the closed position.
Don't forget to include the heater in the
system....do not turn off the block heater
tap, ever. The heater is, after all,
another "heat exchanger" and keeping it
"in" the system increases water quantity
by that amount. In any event,
keeping this tap open provides better flow
of coolant at the rear of the block.
Pick up and install the Cooper "S" 4.5"
water pump pulley. This will provide for
more "time in the radiator" for hot water to cool at lower revs.
This larger size water pump pulley will also prevent "cavitation" as
today's
"normal" road speeds. The stock pulley
in strictly a low rpm performer.
Think about opening another "heater hose
air intake" in the "other side" adjacent to the grille to provide better
airflow past the exhaust side of the engine to help carry
off engine compartment heat from this
area, thus doing it's part in reducing under-hood operating temps.
Consider an outside air induction source/system, or louvres (most people
don't want to do this!) to aid in exhausting
underhood heat while reducing the high
pressure "bubble" of air which builds under the bonnet at speed.
An oil cooler will help at highway speeds
and rpm's, but will do little for you at lower rpm/speeds.
Any one else......feel free to chime in
'cause I sure can't think of every thing! :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/spridgets
|