honest to god real nitrostan? not any more!!!!!!!!
use 3m acrylic glaze or catalised glaze but not the old fashioned laquer
based glaze. laquer based glaze does work but has 2 very upsetting
properties after aplication.
1, it shrinks like crazy while it is hardening. and if used too thick will
crack after a month or 2 due to it still shrinking.
2, it absorbs thinners like a sponge! and yes it swells a bit too. so if
you do not let it sit for really long periods before doing final sanding
prior to paint, it absorbs thinners from paint and swells up more. then you
color sand and buff . about 30-60 days later it finishes shrinking back
and reveals some very nasty looking depressions in the finish.
the 3m acrylic glaze still has some swelling but is far reduced in
comparison to a thickened laquer based product.
the catalised glaze is real fast! it's a production shop type of
matereial. glaze an area and sand it in 10-15 minutes. it is real fast but
sensitive to swelling too. you need to shoot the primer coat real dry to
combat this.
as for a filler? kinda depends on how, what where. if you are overlapping
2 panels or hole filling(it happens) you need a catalised fiberglass based
waterproof filler . this is so the filler does not absorb moisture and
promote rust between the filler and the metal causing the all too cool
looking bubbling effect , just before it "pops off" like magic from behind
the repair. bondo is porous and will absorb moisture...like a sponge! it
should be only used as a "finish coat" over bare metal. never as a hole
filler. and where and when possible use seam sealer (brushable type) to
seal any open seams on the back side so moisture will not enter the seam and
promote rust pushing apart the seam. seam sealer is not water proof. it
must be painted over to seal it. but it replicates the pitch or tar seam
sealing job done by the factory on original panel overlapping seams.
chuck.
ummm.....never mind.......
----- Original Message -----
From "Kent J. Miller" <Bushwacker4 at prodigy.net>
To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 11:51 PM
Subject: Fw: bodywork questions
> I have always had good luck with NitroStan brand red putty 9001. It does
not
> require a hardener, cures quickly, and sands very easily. It is compatible
> with most paint systems too.
> Kent
> 1960 Bugeye
> Subject: bodywork questions
> > Hi all.
> > I hav e a couple of questions for you body work types.
> > 2. In stripping the paint, I saw that the facory had used some filler to
> cover the seams in the fenders. Is the Bondo brand good enough, or is
there
> something else that you can recommend
> > I'll have pics in a few days - I just used up a roll of film and i'm
> getting it developed tomorrow. When it's in I'll post pics on my site,
along
> with a bunch of other questions!
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