David,
You should be using assembly lube for the bearings and lifters and high
friction parts. Sta-Lube makes an assembly lube with moly-graphite that
works great. Spray the camshaft with dry graphite film and let dry before
assembling, but use assembly lube on it too. the cylinders only need
regular motor oil, whatever grade you plan to use. Make sure you rotate the
rings into proper position before assembling. If I remember correctly, my
machinist recommended the compression rings be 180 degrees apart and with
the gap facing the front/rear orientation. On the (3 piece) oil ring, I set
the mark on the center ring over the wrist pin, and the above and below
ring on either side of the wrist pin. The rings will move, but that's where
he suggested I start them off.
It was also recommended to me by Greg Schulz (Thicko list) to break in the
cam in the following fashion (which I did)
>When you finally fire that thing up for the 1st time, tho, get the
>rpm up to 2500 and KEEP IT there for 15-20 minutes for proper cam
>break-in. Never let a new cam idle during first startup. You want
>to continuously flood the cam, lifters, etc with hi-pressure oil
>after the first startup to prevent any cam/lifter scuffing.
>
The 1275 I just put together has 80lbs oil pressure on startup and at
speed, and it idles at about 48 lbs warm. Engine temp runs at 170 to 180
degrees.
Gerard
>Getting back to the rebuild. Does using STP and Oil an OK way to prelube
>everything, except the cylinder walls?
>
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