I will do that.
I do believe that it needed some attention anyway. I did a compression test
this spring and #2 cylinder seemed low. I don't have the numbers right in
front of me, but I will compare them. I had hoped to wait until late autumn
to pull it. This'll most likely be an 'out with the old and in with the
older' fix until I have more time.
Something changed fairly drastically and suddenly.
I would guess that the order of things is to check the compression, check
for proper function under the valve cover, check the timing chain, and pull
the head?
BTW, this is an earlyish 12cc thin flange. I keep hearing 'cylinder wall
flex' and I am wondering what that is and what the symptoms would be. And,
the reason that I am wondering, is because I wonder if I should be
rebuilding this block. I do know from the paperwork, that there is a least
one sleeve installed. ( #1, I beieve )
What are the symptoms of a spun bearing?
-----Original Message-----
>> A question: If I am removing this engine . . . ( Change that to 'when',
not
>> 'if'. ) . . . should I undo the nut from the front of the crankshaft
before
>> or after I remove the engine?
>>
>
>Robert:
>
>With reference as to whether you need a rebuild on your engine, I think it
>would be best to run the wet and dry compression testing before you make
that
>decision. Just to confirm or to indicate otherwise, that you actually need
>to pull the engine for a rebuild.
>
>--David C.
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