Ahem... Low blow alert....
Dan,
Your car actually needs to be ON the road to beat me. Make that ON the road
and RUNNING. Besides, I'm getting a few more ponies 'cause of the header! Do
they allow headers down there?
<grin>
Mike
Dan Dwelley <maine2me@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Mike,
Use the ARP studs! The 1500 head can warp easily and
the ARP studs will hold it secure. Also, you'll want
to use dual valve springs...reason...at the higher end
of the tach., you may experience valve float with
single springs...which means if we're racing, you'll
lose...I have the dual spings! :o))
--- mgraziano@mindspring.com wrote:
> Hey all. Not much technical chatter, so here's one
> for you all.
>
> I'd like to replace the tie rod ends on the Midget.
> I'm concerned about retaining the alignment. Anyone
> have a tried replacement procedure that will result
> in a minimal of alignment tuning afterwards?
>
> Also, the rear springs have to go. ANyone have a
> good source for replacement springs? Do the usual
> suspects have good quality ones? I plan on using
> the Prothane bushes in the rear. I like the ride of
> the ones in the front.
>
> Eventually I'll ask on the procedure for changing
> the rear springs, but if anyone feels like
> typing.....
>
> Also On a high compression rebuild (30 over, 285
> cam, standard valves) should I use ARP studs, or
> will standard ones suffice?
>
> THanks,
>
> Mike
> '78 RB Midget
=====
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
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