What he means is stiff short springs with a fat anti-roll bar at the front
and fairly soft springs at the back. This is the way most race spridgets are
setup.
A panhard rod will not change the spring rate at the rear, but it stops the
lateral movement of the axle housing and it results in the back of the car
becoming much less nervous.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Webster <trunkie@hotmail.com>
To: <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 9 November 1999 1:38
Subject: Re: rear springs movement
> A mate of mine quoted Bob Gill as saying to him that: ' the way to make a
> sprite handle is to have it tight in the front and loose in the back'.
> Is this so?
> Andy
>
>
> >From: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> >Reply-To: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> >To: <BCAH@aol.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: rear springs movement
> >Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:54:12 +1100
> >
> >Well, you won't tear out the mounts on a solid car - historic racing
> >proves that.
> >
> >On the other hand, a panhard rod sure does help.
> >
> >I'll post a couple of photos of a car (1/2 elliptic) without panhard rod
> >under hard cornering. You'll be stunned on how far the axle moves.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <BCAH@aol.com>
> >To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, 8 November 1999 12:16
> >Subject: rear springs movement
> >
> >
> > > Does anyone have any accurate information on just how much the rear
> >springs
> > > on a 1/4 elliptic will allow the axle to move side-to-side on hard
> > > cornering? It seems there must be a lot of force on the front attach
> >bolts
> >on
> > > this setup. What I'm really concerned with is not so much the springs
> > > themselves , but the attach points in the sheet metal. One would think
> >they
> > > would be easy to tear out with today's sticky tires. Anyone have any
> > > experience with this high stress point? It would seem a panhard rod
> >would
> >be
> > > needed the time. Bob Chamberlain
> > >
> >
>
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