Leo,
I finally figured out how to attach these directions for electrolysis of
rusty parts. By the way, please note that the iron bar attaches to the (+)
side of the charger, and the rusty part attaches to the (-) side, which is
the reverse, I think, of what I stated earlier.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Valentine <valntine@ptd.net>
To: Bob Wiedemeyer <boxweed@thebest.net>
Date: Friday, May 07, 1999 6:48 PM
Subject: Electrolytic cleaning of metal
>Bob,
>Electrolytic Cleaning:
>I have had a couple of requests for this recently and there are a lot of
>new
>subscribers, so here 'tis again. I hope I have covered all the points.
>
>Q. What is the method?
>A. A technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect
>of an
>small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte
>(solution).
>
>Q. What advantages does the method have over the old standbys, like
>vinegar,
>Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting etc. ?
>A. These methods all remove material to remove the rust, including
>un-rusted
>surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled"look or a
>characteristic
>color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: by returning
>surface
>rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed.
>Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.
>
>Q. What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"?
>A. The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for
>force,
>which can break things.
>
>Q. Is it safe?
>A. The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are
>low, so
>there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The method
>is self
>limiting: it is impossible to overclean an object.
>
>Q. Where did this method come from?
>A. Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration
>business. I
>wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries
>Association a
>few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use it:
>
>Q. What do I need?
>A. A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing
>soda
>(NOT baking soda!!) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to
>a
>gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda,
>household lye
>will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty--always wear eye protection
>and be
>sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution is
>weak, and
>is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves.
>
>Q. How long does the solution last?
>A. Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting
>after a
>while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the
>solution.
>Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
>
>Q. What about the iron electode?
>A.The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be
>cleaned, since
>the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electode
>will be
>eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys,
>but not
>all) that it is not eaten away.
>
>Q. How do I connect the battery charger?
>A.THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is
>connected to the
>positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the
>negative(black).
>Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be
>difficult
>with heavily rusted objects.
>
> Q. How do I know if it is working?
>A. Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current
>is
>flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is
>essential.
>Fine bubbles will rise from the object.
>
>Q.. How long do I leave it?
>A. The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode,
>and on
>the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to wipe
>off the
>rust. Ir it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning time
>for
>moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects
>can be
>left over night.
>
>Q. How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
>A. Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For
>heavily
>rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. Depending
>on the
>amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat.
>
>Q. My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
>A. Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be
>minimal if
>the cleaning was thorough.
>
>Q. After I take it out, then what?
>A. The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it
>dry and
>dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to apply a
>light
>oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting.
>
>Q. Will the method remove pitting?
>A. No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted
>metal.
>What's gone is gone.
>
>Q. What will it look like when I am done?
>A. The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still
>pits. Shiny
>unrusted metal is untouched.
>
>Q. What about nickle plating, paint, japanning and the like?
>A. Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has
>penetrated
>will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test with a
>drop of
>solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible
>before
>treating.
>
>Q. How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean?
>A. There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a
>cavity
>in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing
>electrode
>to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be submerged
>(like with
>lots of wood)
>
>Q. How can I dispose of the solution?
>A. The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is
>time for
>a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly
>basic-so
>disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your
>drains.
>
>Q. Can I use metal containers?
>A. This is highly risky. Galvanized metal can introduce zinc into the
>solution.
>If you have used lye, it will attack aluminum. You may have problems
>with
>electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic.
>
>Q. How can I clean odd shaped objects?
>A. Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs, wooden boxes with
>poly vapor
>barrier.
>
>
>Ted Kinsey (original author)
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