You won't need a relay for resistive loads like auto lights.....just use
adequate wire similar to the existing wiring. But don't wire them in
series....wire in parallel if you want them to operate off the same switch (I'm
assuming they're both 12v bulbs and you have a 12V system - you're not
deliberately trying to drop voltage with this circuit, right?). Wiring in
series wouild cause a voltage drop and they'd both only be seeing about half
system voltage - they'd burn dim in series. Here's the way to do it with bulbs
of the same voltage rating as your car's battery:
Run your power(battery hot, in this case) from an existing fuse location (or
use an inline fuse near the hot source) to one side of the switch. The other
side of the switch feeds the hot terminals of both bulbs, and the other bulb
terminals (usually the bulb casing) are grounded. You can run two separate
wires from the feed side of the switch, one to each bulb, -OR- run one wire
from the switch to one bulb, then jumper that bulb to the other bulb -
whichever is easier to wire is ok. This puts the bulbs in parallel at system
voltage, switched from a fused hot source.
Mike
--- "Paul A. Dolloff, Ph.D." <pauld@ekpc.com> wrote:
> List,
>
> I have installed a light in the boot and have placed an on/off switch for it
> on
> the console. I have also installed a jeweled light that I would like to have
>
> illuminate when the boot light is on. I jerked the jeweled light from the
> dash
> of the '69 parts car.
>
> Question: Do I need to use a relay or can I connect these lights in series
> through the switch? I don't want to burn out the jeweled light.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Paul A. Dolloff, Ph.D.
> Lexington, KY
> 606/744-4812 ext. 389
> '66 A/H Sprite MK III: HAN8L-55641
> '66 A/H Sprite MK III: HAN8L-59017
> '69 A/H Sprite MK IV: Parts car
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>
=====
Michael B. Dietsche, P.E.
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