I have the same question...
I'm got a 1275 with a Kent MD266 cam, and dellorto side draft, and ignitor
ignition.
I 'timed in the cam' to the exact specifications that came with the cam, using
a
dial gauge to find actual TDC of the #1 piston, and then checking for maximum
lift at the intake valve ( had to use an offset cam key). In any case, my
timing
marks on the fly wheel are now off by about 2.5 degrees.
The engine started fine without setting the timiing at all (this was a totally
rebuilt engine and never run).
It appear that the timing may be a litt too advanced, and I tried adjusting it
by 'ear' with the car idleing at around 2000 RPM (break-in) (it's almost
impossible to read the timing marks with the car sitting on the ground).
In any case, is there a better way??
- Bryan
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>To: "spridgets@autox.team.net" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Timing the 1275 ?
>
>Got the beast running pretty well now, after the
>"we never laid a glove on it" inspection. But I'm still
>not real happy with the timing.
>
>First I always take out the expensive timing light and try to
>set it according to the book -- about 10 degrees BTDC at about
>800-1000 rpm with the vacuum hose disconnected and plugged.
>
>She really does not like that setting.
>
>Then I just try to set it using a tach to get it smooth and
>just below the peak rpm. Usually ends up with the timing mark
>on the pulley just in advance of the entire timing scale
>on the crankcase.
>
>There has gotta be a better way!
>
>Is there a better setting than 10 degrees BTDC for dynamic timing?
>
>chuck
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