You already have good advice, so I'll just add a "me too"
D Street Prepared is a good low-cost way to play (I'm going to assume you
mean SCCA even though I don't autox SCCA; I play with an ancient local club
that is very similar.)
Street Prepared update/backdate rules allow use of pretty much any
Spridget part. (4.22 early differentials for instance) Any springs,
headers, carbs, or wheel size, a few other things but mostly any
intake/exhaust or bolt-on suspension upgrades; engine internals are stock.
you can take off all the smog bits. Competition is tough but fun. Rabbit
GTIs, Siroccos, Dodge Omnis, Fiat X1/9s, and locally we have an Opel GT
that is hard to beat. I'm not very good, and I'm mid-pack, so Spridgets
aren't completely outclassed, at least locally. Nationally, the X1/9 is the
car, at least right now. I'm not sure what will happen when it goes to ESP,
but I think it will be better (as in easier competition.)
The round-wheel arch car is a good place to start. You can get pretty
radical if you're willing to trailer it, too. Lower springs, as stiff as
you like. Get a LCB header, and put on just enough silencing to keep the
site owners happy (open exhausts are generally frowned on as noise makes it
hard to rent parking lots.) Get some K&N filers and air horns, and clean up
your intake manifold per Vizard. (port matching is OK) Panhard bar. Nice
fat heim-jointed sway bar with nylon bushings. Negative camber bushings for
the trunnions, (see Winners Circle - www.spridget.com - for any of these
bits) those bright poly bushings that are a bit too hard for the street;
get some heavy-duty valved shocks from Peter C. or fill 'em up with 20wt
(or 30wt) motorcycle fork oil, a 4.22 diff, those 6" wheels that somebody
on the list was looking to get rid of, a set of tires, some high
performance street brake pads (not race - you'll never get them hot enough)
and you're off. There's more you can do, and everything is subject to
tuning/adjustment but that would be plenty to get you started.
Re tires: 185/60 13's are not too hard to find as road race take-offs if
you want to get started cheap (The Yokohama A008RSII in this size is $87
from TireRack, plus shipping and mounting, so used tires can be a good
thing.) The last generation BFGoodrich R1- what some say is THE tire to
have - is $103. With BFG R1's you might be able to go with 205/60s on a 6"
wide wheel, lots o' grip but slightly less advantageous gearing as they'd
be a smidge taller. If you don't want to spend the money on DOT race
rubber, check if your local region has a street tire class, but keep in
mind if you run expensive street rubber that autocrossing will be hard on
it.
You can go with DCOEs in Street Prepared if you want to spend the money, or
if Prepared is your eventual goal, you could get the guys at Winners Circle
to build you a set of 1.5" SUs on a suitable manifold, but I doubt your
internally stock engine is going to be able to use all that carb.
(This is mostly where my car is, except I don't have a round-arch, so I'm
stuffing 5" wheels under the square arches.) and I drive it to work most
days - minus the wide Yokohamas.
When you wear out the motor, then you can worry about building a Prepared
class motor. Don't sweat it now, you'll get beat a lot anyway, just learn
and have fun. Don't sweat it too much if your engine internals aren't
completely stock either, no one is going to care that you aren't running in
Prepared while you are a new guy, unless you have a severely lumpy cam (or
start beating them.) I don't recommend cheating, just run what you have. At
the local level people are pretty low-key. Make sure you don't have any
excessive oil leaks and that your wheel bearings are good and the battery
is tied down SOLID. I also like having a seat belt that isn't the
inertial-reel type, so I can cinch myself in real tight. I don't want to be
flailing around in there too much, it isn't in keeping with the string-
backed, stiff-upper lipped dignity that is appropriate to a proper sports
car.
Have fun
Phil Vanner
'61 Midget #86 DSP
-----Original Message-----
From: Lancer7676@aol.com [SMTP:Lancer7676@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:13 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Autocross car preparation.
I have been undecided as to the direction to go with my LBC's and have been
considering a possiblity. I would like some input from the list. I have a
good running 1979 Midget. I bought the Midget in good running and good
looking shape to have one to drive while I worked on my 1967 Sprite, which
is
now, and yes, still, a body shell. Lots of welding and finishing to do
there
although I have completed the 1275 engine rebuild and it is ready to drop
in.
I have also acquired a 1973 Midget, restorable, but I have vacillated
between using that body in the rebirth of my 1967 (I like the round wheel
arches), restoring it (really dont want to get into that much work again
--the
1967 is taking all my time), or, now I am thinking of turning it into an
Autocross car.
My questions are:
(1) Considering the 1973 is fairly sound--needing lower front door posts
on
both sides, cosmetic work on the right rocker, replacement of the metal
below
the boot lid, and a new rear boot floor--, and considering that I do have
strong limitations on money, Can anyone tell me the order of work that I
might get the most payback from doing on this car, in terms of turning it
into a non-street, strictly Autocross car? That is assuming I do the
bodywork first.
(2) Since the car would be utilized only as an Autocross car, and would be
towed to the events, Is it necessary to replace the lower front door hinge
posts? Or would it be acceptable to clean out the rust as much as
possible,
treat it to stop it, connect the door by the top hinge and the door latch,
then to weld the door solidly shut on the inside?
(3) What type of engine modifications would I need to make in rebuilding
the
1275 that came with the 1973 to make it the best engine for an Auto cross
car?
(4) I have been told I need a rear end with high ratio--like high 4.+.
Are
these available as standard rear end ratios or are these specially built
differentials?
(5) Any other information regarding this possible rebuild will be welcome
and usefull to me--including words of advice, tire types and sizes, used
but
good Autocross parts and/or equipment, books of reference, and/or websites
to
go to with Autocross rebuild information.
Thanks guys!! Your input will help me make a decision about the direction
I
want to go with that '73!
David
|