Absolutely correct. The wheel should be 100% home against the taper. I
fell for this about nineteen years ago. If you're not sure about clearance
put a dob of plasticene on the end of each stud and refit the wheel.
Remove the wheel and if the plasticene is distorted you've got some more
thinking to do.
Peter
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From: Bob Chamberlain <bobchamb@southwind.net>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: A thought
Date: Wednesday, 12 May 1999 12:27
I was looking at some old wire wheels I had and noticed that some had
small, half-moon indentations on the brake side of the hub. At first, I
thought these were some kind of tooling mark, but the closer I looked , I
could see they seemed to line up with the studs.Then it came to me,---when
people convert to wire wheels they do not change the studs. There are two
different part numbers for the studs,-------one for wire wheel and one for
solid wheels. The wire ones are shorter. Could it be that when converting
to wires, the wheel is not going on all the way but riding on the ends of
the longer studs? If this is the case, the wheel is not really fully on to
the splined hub. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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