I had the same idea when I saw the way it was designed -- there's certainly
other ways to wire the hazard. I have worked up a wiring diagram for a relayed
hazard and many other changes, but I have not done all the work on the car yet
and therefore wouldn't recommend those changes without a trial run. I'll look
at it again tonite and see if there's an easy way to hook it up with separate
hazard that doesn't involve all the other changes (relays, different harness,
etc.) that I've been working on.....
An old quick-trick is to add a switch that connects to both sides of the
blinkers; this switch is your hazard switch. To use the hazard you then turn
this switch on, and also turn the blinker switch either right or left - both
sides then blink while the hazard switch is on. I don't like this quick-trick.
It has several drawbacks, one of which is the fact that blinker power is
usually from the ignition switch only, so the setup wouldn't work without the
ignition switch being on. What you really want is battery-hot power for the
hazard, and ignition-hot power for the blinkers. Good practice also calls for
separate flasher units for blinker and hazard, such that hazard will work with
some lamps out, but blinker will freeze up when a lamp dies to warn you it's
out. You have to tie all this into the lamp circuits, with the blinker
side-selective and hazard on all lamps -- that's why it's a little complicated
and why you end up with these multi-pole switches to make the logic work. When
I have the wiring diagram in front of me tonite I'll be able to offer some
better suggestions....
--- "Paul A. Dolloff, Ph.D." <pauld@ekpc.com> wrote:
> Michael,
>
> I read your post about the turn signals and got a lot of good
> information from it. Thanks. I have bought a console from a '75
> Midget that I am going to put in my '66 Sprite. I noticed that the
> console has the hazzard switch with a hugh number of wires
> attached to it. I will check my wiring diagram as you suggest but
> now understand that the turn signal switch is wired through the
> hazzard.
>
> I wanted to ask if I can hook up the hazzard switch without having
> to pull my turn signal switch through it. I would like to keep the
> turn signal wiring alone simply add the hazzard. Is this possible?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
> From: Michael Dietsche <mdietsche@yahoo.com>
>
> > It could still be the hazard switch, even though the hazard function is ok.
>
> > The switch selects between contact groups -- one group sets up the turn
> > signals, the other group is the hazard. The switch isn't really an on-off
> for
> > the hazard, but a selector between hazard function and turn signal function
> (at
> > least on my car). So you can definitely get a turn failure from the hazard
> > switch -- all those wires meet at the switch. Trace your wiring diagram to
> see
> > how it works (I like to use colored pencils on a copy to see how the power
> and
> > wires connect). Once you see it you can test the switch function with your
> > multimeter to see if it's switching what it's supposed to (unhook the
> battery
> > first or take out the switch!). Or you can always use the Oklahoma Shotgun
> > Technique.....replace the switch and any other likely suspect part at one
> time,
> > and the problem's fixed! Brutal but effective if you're not into the
> > troubleshooting lifestyle. Good luck!
> >
> > MD
> >
> > --- Lancer7676@aol.com wrote:
> > > In a message dated 4/21/99 10:03:59 PM EST, byers@cconnect.net writes:
> > >
> > > << Whenever my signals quit working, it's usually the bad connections in
> the
> > > HAZARD switch on the console. Cycling the switch on and off a couple of
> > > times usually makes the turn signals work until the next time they
> > > quit....... >>
> > >
> > > Hmm--that is the second suggestion that the hazard switch is involved. I
>
> > > will definitely look there. BUT the hazard lights and switch are working
> > > well. Does that make a difference? Thanks Steve!
> > >
> > > --David
> > >
> >
> > ===
> >
> > Michael B. Dietsche, P.E.
> >
>
>
>
===
Michael B. Dietsche, P.E.
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