I've had terrific results from ATF or an SAE10 oil in the dashpots. You
don't want the oil too thick as it inhibits the piston from rising
correctly, it's there to damp vibrations not control the piston rising. To
change the oil undo the 2 or 3 screws from around the dashpot and simply
lift all the bits out. Don't forget to replace the damper spring when
you're reassembling.
For the charging you could have stuck points or another problem in your
voltage regulator.
Check that you have free play in the master cylinder clutch pushrod. About
1/16" is enough.
Peter Westcott
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From: AHSprite78@aol.com
To: Spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Dashpot oil, generator, clutch
Date: Thursday, 8 April 1999 8:51
Ok, remember a long time ago when there was a thread about what oil to use
in
the SU carbs. I think the consinces was to use Marvel Mystery Oil, or at
least some people liked it. Do you put just that in the carbs? it seems
kinda thin. Also, how should I get all of the old oil out of the dashpots?
Does it really work in the engine oil (as it claims)?
On to the next question. The generator was not charging the battery so, I
replaced it with rebuilt unit from Victoria british. I put it in and the
little red light on the speedo still stays lit even when the engine is
revved
up. Is the light wired wrong? Is there something I goofed up (most
likely)?
Last question (sigh) The clutch does not seem to be completely
disengaging.
I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder on the tranny.
I've bled the clutch. It shifts fine, but releases at the floor. When I
brake to a stop though it tried to stall. Is there any way to get a little
more out of it or something?
Thanks
Matthew Smith
'67 Sprite
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