Great page thanks for the post... always wondered how that worked.... for
the basic body work on a car... would you just use Metal prep prior to
Primer or is there something you would recommend...
Keith Turk
Austin Healey 100 / Bugeye / Box Sprite / Bonneville Land Speed Racer
Camaro ( D Gas Altered )
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> From: Valentine <valntine@mail.ptd.net>
> To: Mike Gigante <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>
> Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: RUST
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 8:49 PM
>
> Mike,
>
> Here is some very good info on rust removal as you requested. I have
> been using electrolytic for several years - I even have a childs
> swimming pool set up to do fenders. I literally cleaned my entire 71
> this way....
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> For a disertation on acids go to:
>
> http://www.team.net/sol/tech/deruster.html
>
>
>
>
> The following is a good guide to electro cleaning.
>
> The Electrolytic Rust Removal Fac
> Ted Kinsey
>
> I have had a couple of requests for this recently and there are a lot of
> new
> subscribers, so here 'tis again. I hope I have covered all the points so
> we
> don't start the thread again.
>
> Q. What is the method?
> A. A technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect
> of an
> small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte
> (solution).
>
> Q. What advantages does the method have over the old standbys, like
> vinegar,
> Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting etc. ?
> A. These methods all remove material to remove the rust, including
> un-rusted
> surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled"look or a
> characteristic
> color and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: by returning
> surface
> rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed.
> Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.
>
> Q. What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"?
> A. The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for
> force,
> which can break things.
>
> Q. Is it safe?
> A. The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are
> low, so
> there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The method
> is self
> limiting: it is impossible to overclean an object.
>
> Q. Where did this method come from?
> A. Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artifact restoration
> business. I
> wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries
> Association a
> few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use it:
>
> Q. What do I need?
> A. A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing
> soda
> (NOT baking soda!!) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to
> a
> gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda,
> household lye
> will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty--always wear eye protection
> and be
> sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution is
> weak, and
> is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves.
>
> Q. How long does the solution last?
> A. Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting
> after a
> while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the
> solution.
> Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
>
> Q. What about the iron electode?
> A.The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be
> cleaned, since
> the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electode
> will be
> eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys,
> but not
> all) that it is not eaten away.
>
> Q. How do I connect the battery charger?
> A.THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is
> connected to the
> positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the
> negative(black).
> Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be
> difficult
> with heavily rusted objects.
>
> Q. How do I know if it is working?
> A. Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current
> is
> flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is
> essential.
> Fine bubbles will rise from the object.
>
> Q.. How long do I leave it?
> A. The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode,
> and on
> the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to wipe
> off the
> rust. Ir it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning time
> for
> moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects
> can be
> left over night.
>
> Q. How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
> A. Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For
> heavily
> rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. Depending
> on the
> amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat.
>
> Q. My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
> A. Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be
> minimal if
> the cleaning was thorough.
>
> Q. After I take it out, then what?
> A. The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it
> dry and
> dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to apply a
> light
> oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting.
>
> Q. Will the method remove pitting?
> A. No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted
> metal.
> What's gone is gone.
>
> Q. What will it look like when I am done?
> A. The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still
> pits. Shiny
> unrusted metal is untouched.
>
> Q. What about nickle plating, paint, japanning and the like?
> A. Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has
> penetrated
> will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test with a
> drop of
> solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible
> before
> treating.
>
> Q. How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean?
> A. There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a
> cavity
> in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing
> electrode
> to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be submerged
> (like with
> lots of wood)
>
> Q. How can I dispose of the solution?
> A. The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is
> time for
> a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly
> basic-so
> disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your
> drains.
>
> Q. Can I use metal containers?
> A. This is highly risky. Galvanized metal can introduce zinc into the
> solution.
> If you have used lye, it will attack aluminum. You may have problems
> with
> electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic.
>
> Q. How can I clean odd shaped objects?
> A. Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs, wooden boxes with
> poly vapor
> barrier.
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