spridgets
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Engine Mounts

To: Dave Hiley <dhiley@cadvision.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Mounts
From: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 17:10:59 -0400
Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Positive Earth Drivers Club
References: <3.0.5.32.19980913141331.007aad70@cadvision.com>
Reply-to: Frank Clarici <spritenut@Exit109.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Dave Hiley wrote:
> 
> Hello:
> 
> The good news is I put my rebuilt engine back in the car today.  A major
> milestone and it feels good.
> 
> The bad new (maybe) is that I think I may have broken the single bolt on
> one of the front mounts.  I say maybe because I suspect it has broken or
> come loose inside the mount itself.  It will not tighten properly.  The
> mounts are new.
> 
> Has anybody had this problem before?  I am sure kickin myself for
> discarding the old ones before I had everything refitted.
> 
> I also noted when connecting the drive shaft at the differential that it
> looks like the front seal needs to be replaced.  How much time should I
> allow for this project?
> 
> dave
> '72 MKIII


Dave

I never heard of someone breaking the singl MM stud but anything is
possible.
Are you sure it is in correctly? There is a stud (peg) which lines up in
a hole on the metal engine mount, this keeps the rubber mount from
spinning when you tighten the nut.

As for the diff seal, it should take about 2 hours for a first timer.
jack up the car, remove the rear wheels and brake drums, drain the diff
oil, remove the single philips head screw that holds the axle in place,
pull out the axles. From under the car undo the drive shaft and stuff it
towards the muffler, remove the brake line "T" from the diff housing,
undo the 8 nuts and pull out the diff. Using a 1 5/16" inpact socket and
wrench, remove the front diff nut, pull out the flange and seal.
The seal is the same as a certain Ford axle seal, I have had it matched
up at my local NAPA store. The seals from many of the suppliers are
inferior and will leak inside of a year. (if it's made in Taiwan, send
it back) Tap in the new seal, replace the flange and nut, impact it on
good, replace the diff, axles, drums, wheels, and refill with new 90wt
oil.
That's the long way, now for the short cut....
Remove the drive shaft, climb under with inpact wrench in hand, undo the
nut, remove the flange and seal, replace the seal and flange, hook up
the drive shaft. Total time about 20 minutes, 15 of that is for R&R of
the drive shaft bolts. The wheels and axles do not have to come off this
way only if you are pulling the diff out of the axle casing.

good luck
-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
Lots of LBCs
http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>