Ulix
"It wouldn't start if 180deg off."
Not entirely true. If you move the plug wires being 180 out does not matter.
My distributor will rotate 360 degrees and will work in either position as
long as I change which wire is #1. I have it installed 180 out because I
like where it places the wire connections. It makes the clamping bolt easier
to reach.
There is always one odd ball in the crowd.
LM
-----Original Message-----
From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
To: Philip Hubbard <phubbard@carroll.com>
Cc: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: 24 August, 1998 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: 1974 Midget Progress Report & Questions
>> How tight to tighten the u-bolt nuts on the rear springs? Seems that
since
>> they are being tightened against poly, one could just keep tightening for
>> quite a while compressing the poly bushings. Should I do so? Is there a
>> correct torque for these bolts?
>
>There is no torque value. You have to use your own judgement. I would
>torque them until you see the bushings get slightly squished, then recheck
>after a couple of weeks.
>
>> When replacing the rotor on the distributor I forgot to take note of
which
>> direction it was facing. Haynes says if you put it on wrong the timing
>> will be off 180 degrees. Did I get lucky and guess right if the car is
>> running ok? Does timing being off by 180 mean it wouldn't start or run
>> anywhere near smooth?
>
>It wouldn't start if 180deg off.
>
>> As part of the distributor service I tried to check the vacuum unit. The
>> Motorhead tape says to put a hose on it and suck air through it. You are
>> supposed to get a very slight movement of the plate and not be able to
draw
>> air through freely. Well, I can't draw air through freely, but I saw no
>> movement. Does this indicate a problem?
>
>Yes. You can further check this when you get the timing light to work by
>reving the car with and w/o the vacuum connected. For now you could check
>that the vacuum unit moves freely etc.
>
>> In a related issue, seems like when I turned the little fine tuning knob
I
>> got no real change in timing. When Rob Medynski the wizard mechanic
tuned
>> me up in April I could hear the difference when he turned the knob. Can
>> anyone think of something I might have done to make this inoperable,
i.e.,
>> put the rotor in backwards? :)
>
>This might be related to the problem above. You should check that the
>vacuum unit and the knob can actually move the base plate.
>
>> When I tried to use the Unisync, I couldn't get the little plastic float
to
>> move at all. I screwed the air flow gadget in the center of the Unisync
up
>> and down but no joy at any setting. Anyone have an idea what I'm doing
wrong?
>
>Tightening down the little plate will reduce the area for the air to pass
>through and should make the ball come up. If you tighten it too much, it
>will come out the rear of the unisyn and increase the slot again.
>Move it so that the least amount of space for the air to pass through and
>try again.
>
>> Why didn't the timing light work? I bought a direct connect light. I
>> detached number one spark plug wire and attached the spark lead from the
>> light. Then I attached the positive lead to the positive battery
terminal
>> and the negative lead to battery negative. Started the car and squeezed
>> the trigger. No light. My mistake(s)? I can see now that using a light
>> on these cars is a bear considering where the timing marks are located,
but
>> I bought the light already, doubt I can find the receipt and I might as
>> well learn how it is =supposed= to work. :)
>
>I don't know what kind of light this is, but if you have to disconnect the
>spark plug wire from the spark plug, you then have to connect the wire to
>the timing light and another wire from the light to the spark plug. Did
>you do this?
>The battery supplies the power and the spark plug wire connection tells
>the light when to flash.
>
> Ulix __/__,__
>.......................................................... (_o____o_)....
> '67 Sprite
>
>
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