Actually, at RPM the oil in there can get to be
under pressure - our motors
generate an awful lot of positive
crankcase pressure. The fuel pump
hole is also a prime place for leaks,
since any kind of hard cornering will
cause the sump oil to run right up the
side of the pan and block to that hole.
I've had about every leak problem
known to LBCs on my Bugeye -
here's what I did to "fix" them:
1) use Permatex 98H on every mating surface -
the 3H brown aviation sealer hardens
while the red (I call it "virgin's blood") 98H stays pliable.
Use it generously and let it get tacky before
assembling parts.
2) allow your motor every opportunity to breathe out that
crankcase pressure. Use a vented oil filler cap. Pull
the brillo pad out of the timing case breather. If you've
got tappet covers, make sure one of them also
contains a breather (without a brillo pad insert).
If your valve cover has a prong, cut the end off for better
flow and run it to a vented catch tank.
3) When this still doesn't eliminate all leaks, take a
piece of thin-gauge sheet aluminum and find or make a
crude sheetmetal brake and make a belly pan to go
under the motor and trans. Attach with screws so you
can remove it as needed. Then head for the local boater's
supply place and get squares of polypropylene batting
and tape them to the belly pan. These pads are
made for the same task on a boat. Yup - a maxi-pad for
your Sprite. Works a treat, and my fellow vintage drivers
are most appreciative.
JZ
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shk [SMTP:shk@qnet.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 24, 1998 10:29 AM
> To: spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Leaking fuel pump
>
> I have been trying to stop an oil leak from my fuel pump for a couple
> of days now....
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