Doug...
The "Car (Chassis) number", is what is American is generally referred to
as the "Vehicle Identification Number". It was stamped on a plate in
1/8" sans serif lettering, and on both right and left-hand drive carss
was mounted on the left-hand inner wheel arch valance. Most of the
catalogs (Moss U.S., Victoria British, etc.) have good descriptions of
and secrets of decoding the various serialized component numbers,
including the engine number, gearbox number, and body number.
The AN5L/ portion was, without a doubt, a single die stamp, for all of
the lettering will appear evenly spaced and in a straight line. The
sequential part of the number was clearly handstamped using a different
die for each number (except the 6 and 9 which was simply turned to make
the correct number). "Clearly", because the numbers will appear
unevenly spaced and bounce up and down like the stock market. There was
no dash (-) in any part of the VIN number.
Joe and Dave...
I agree with Reid that your VIN plates should have either a "L" (for
left hand drive) or "R" for right hand drive.
Daniel...
Something is wrong with your VIN plate, for it should have a prefix
identifying it as a right or left-hand drive Sprite. Even if the plate
was covered with paint, the stamping would remain.
One of the problems for current owners is, of course, that
identification number plates for ALL cars have long been subject to
fiddling, and in in fact are now reproduced. Thus, the number on the
car may not necessarily be the original.
Bob Evans
Anaheim, California
Frogeyes AN 5L/762, AN 5L/26893
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