The only place it can come from is the mechanical seal. Did you check the
tolerances? I believe it should be around 0.004". Unfortunately I didn't verify
this when I had mine apart. Also is the oil thrower worm clean and turning the
right way? One more thing, if my memory serves me correctly there is a drain
hole at the bottom of the rear mechanical seal to which the oil returns to the
sump. Is it open? If by chance it is plugged then the oil will puddle there and
when the vacuum is lost due to the engine being turned off will allow the oil
to run out of the mechanical seal.
Hope this helps.
Dave Formstone
1960 Bugeye
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From: Frank Clarici[SMTP:spritenut@Exit109.com]
Sent: January 17, 1998 15:45 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Still leaking
Guys, Girls, Roofers, Waterproofers
After removing the engine, replacing the cracked back plate and triple checking
everything
else, I still have an oil leak!!!!!
It does not leak when running, not a drop, had it reved up, idle, etc, for over
an hour.
No leak.
As soon as I shut off the engine oil pours out between the tranny and
backplate. a spot
the size of a pancake.
Start it up, no leak, turn it off, another pancake size oil spot.
My own personal cure to this problem is turn the fresh rebuilt engine into an
artifical
reef. Which is exactly what I'm going to do with it as soon as I pull it out
and rebuild
another 1275.
Anybody have any ideas?
It's not the gaskets.
It's not the PCV.
It's not the tranny.
It's not the oil gauge line.
It's not a cracked block.
It's not the oil pump (changed that too)
It's not the oil pump cover.
It's not another cracked back plate.
It's not gonna float either!
--
Frank Clarici
Seeing all of you at Sprite Rush 98
For more info on Sprite Rush, the 40th anniversery of the Healey Sprite
Check out my home page http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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