Chuck:
Undoing the crank bolt can be a bear. In neutral, "undoing" it can just
turn the engine over, as you found. In gear, "undoing" it can move the
whole car! I have propped the car against a wall - and heaving away on the
socket just caused the the car wheels to skid. I have chocked the car, and
all that happened was that the car rose up on its chocks!
Heavy mallet hits on the socket driver (or lever) can sometimes apply
enough impact loads to do the job.
Here's what I think is pretty infallible. Lay the socket driver against a
part of the engine compartment, then use a short burst of starter motor to
turn the engine while the bolt stays fixed relative to the car. I hope you
can follow along with the poorly written description of this technique,
because it works - in the experience of others as well as myself.
Unfortunately it took me a whole week to figure out this approach by
myself/
You need to work out which direction the socket will rotate as the engine
rotates, and locate the socket driver so that it does not fly around before
it crashes against car structure or someone else. It must be up against
car structure in the first place. For added safety, do not let anyone hang
around the car when you do it.
Daryl
----------
> From: Chuck Ciaffone <chuckc@ibm.net>
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Removing Crank Pulley Bolt
> Date: Wednesday, November 12, 1997 10:10 AM
>
> Hey,
>
> Dismantling the 72 Midget has been going just fine up till now. I
> have to pull the crank pulley, timing cover, and
> timing gear to get at the front bolts for the front
> crank main bearing cover. I have a socket that fits fine
> on the crank bolt, but I have nothing to keep the crank itself
> from turning. I need suggestions. HELPPPP!
>
> chuck
> --
> =====================================================
>
> chuck ciaffone chuckc@ibm.net
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