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Building a Spridget (long)

To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Building a Spridget (long)
From: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 97 17:18:04 UT
Reply-to: "Larry G. Miller" <millerls@classic.msn.com>
Sender: owner-spridgets@Autox.Team.Net
Hi All

Since I am in the process of building a Spridget (in this case a 59 Bugeye) 
pretty much from scratch, I have been asked by some members of the list to 
chronicle this saga. I'm sure that I will encounter a lot of the problems that 
are encountered on a day to day basis by the members of the "spridget" list or 
at least problems that have been encountered and conquered in the past.  I 
will be relying on the "spridget" list for a lot of insight and guidance in 
this process. Hopefully this will also provide insights for others that are 
contemplating doing similar things to their Spridgets.  If you don't learn 
"How To" do it, maybe at least you will learn "How Not To" do it.  All of the 
messages on this subject will be titled "Building a Spridget" so those of you 
that are not interested can just delete them when they arrive.

I learned of this car through a "friend" and fellow member of the Pebble Beach 
Sports Car Club (PBSCC). The car had been setting in a Pacific Grove 
California backyard, uncovered and totally exposed to the elements for about 
five years.  Although the winters here are not as severe as in other parts of 
the country, it is damp, and the air is salty so its not like the desert but 
its not real bad either.  The current owner had purchased the car from a guy 
that had raced it back in the late 60's early 70's and who had stored it 
inside for most of the in-between years.  It had a lot of rust but most of it 
was just surface stuff and was not a problem.  The real problem with the car 
was the Bonnet.  The current owner had purchased the car strictly for the 
Bonnet and the passenger side door to replace the ones on his MKII. which has 
a Bugeye Bonnet. The original Bonnet was near perfect but the one he swapped 
it for was a total loss as far as my metal working skills were concerned.  The 
fender seams where rusted through almost the entire length of both fenders.  
The flange on the fenders and the center section were mostly gone. It would 
have required someone with a lot of skill and a lot of money on my part to 
fix.  I bought the car anyway.

The racer had enlarged the slave cylinder access hole and had cut a hole in 
the bottom of the driveshaft tunnel to facilitate driveshaft installation.  He 
had also cut two, two inch square holes, one on each side of the license plate 
recess area. It looked like he had installed some kind of lights in them.  I 
contemplated for a while and decided to keep the enlarged slave cylinder 
access hole and the driveshaft tunnel hole looking on them as improvements.  I 
made some covers out of aluminum and bolted them on to cover the holes but 
still allow access for clutch bleeding and driveshaft installation when 
required.  I made patches and filled the holes in the licensee plate recess.

The car had been totally stripped except for the rust, six layers of paint, 
suspension, steering, doors, and Bonnet.  The inner fenders on the front had 
also been removed (why?). The passenger side door that had been swapped with 
the MKII's was in pretty bad shape, the skin was stretched and it would just 
flop in or out when touched, and it had a large dent in the front hinge edge  
above the top hinge, how this was done I don't know.  I found a very good door 
at the last Mini Mania Swap meet and it fits pretty well so that problem is 
solved. The front and rear suspension was removed and checked for usability.  
The only things retained where the front hubs, the rear axle housing, the 
differential, and the rear axle shafts.  Although I plan to replace the axles 
with hardened ones, I will probably use them initially. The next order of 
business was removing the old paint, under coating, and 35 years of 
accumulated crap. 

The tub and doors were taken down to bare metal, top and bottom, inside and 
outside.  The only place not stripped was the inside of the 
transmission/driveshaft tunnel and if anyone has any good ideas (other than 
growing longer arms) on how to do that area by hand I would be interested.  I 
used a combination of paint removal wheels of various types, wire wheels of 
various types, paint remover, an electric drill, a Propane torch, various 
scrappers, and a siphon type sand blaster. You have not lived until you have 
sandblasted the inside of a Bugeye trunk. It took me about three months of 
hard labor but I got the entire car down to bare metal.  I know there are 
easier and probably better ways to do this but they are not nearly as much fun 
and do not provide nearly as much satisfaction as doing it by hand. Its very 
therapeutic laying on your back scrapping and wire brushing on the bottom of a 
Spridget for hours at a time.  It gives you a lot of time to contemplate the 
vagaries of life and LBC's. The hardest stuff to get off was the undercoating. 
I ended up using a propane torch to heat it up and then a putty knife to 
scrape it off.  After the outer crust of undercoating was removed, paint 
remover would dissolve most of the rest and then the wire brush would clean it 
up.

There was not as many bad rust spots as you might think.  The lower portion of 
door hinge post on the drivers side, the pockets behind the rear wheel wells 
(found a partially decomposed pine cone in one side), and the trough that runs 
across the rear of the Bugeye trunk pan. If your Bugeye has to set outside in 
the rain or is driven in the rain keep an eye on this trough, it is a perfect 
water retention spot.  I drilled drain holes in the new sheet metal after it 
was installed. All of these places  had to be cut out and replaced along with 
the inner fenders on the front. I got the inner fenders from Moss because they 
sell them in one piece.  Other places that I checked sold them in the two 
separate pieces that they consist of. I made my own patches from 20 gauge 
sheet metal using a sheet metal nipper. I then used a pair of flanging pliers 
to flange the edges of each patch.  This works o.k. when you can put the patch 
in place from the back but it can be difficult to insert the flange from the 
outside so you may not be able to flange all of the edges.  I used a spot 
welder attachment of my Mity-Mite welder to spot the patches and inner fenders 
in place.  The spot welder works o.k. as long as there is no air gap between 
the two pieces being welded.  If there is any air gap at all, it tends to just 
burn a hole in the outer piece. After the patches were spot welded, I used a 
combination of an arc welder and a gas welder with a #1 tip to weld the seams. 
 I then used a heavy sanding/grinding wheel (paper backed) in my trusty drill 
to grind the welds down to surface level. At this point the dreaded Bondo came 
into play.  I don't really have a problem with Bondo just the way some people 
use it. I used it to smooth the area after welding and grinding. 

I have taken some flack over this but I coated the entire floor pan, top and 
bottom with POR-15.  I have used this stuff in the past and liked it.  Others 
have told me that after putting it on they could peel it off in large 
sections. I used it over bare metal (a lot of it sandblasted) after prepping 
the surface with a metal prep also made by the POR-15 company.  I had 
previously used it on sections of Bugeye #1's floorpan and don't see any 
problems with it.  I then painted over the POR-15 with a flat black enamel 
followed by a coat of rubberized undercoating. At this point the tub is pretty 
much finished except for stripping the new passenger door.

More "Building a Spridget" Later

BTW

If anyone on this list lives in the Monterey/Salinas area, or anywhere in the 
region for that matter,  and is interested in meeting other car nuts let me 
know.  I am a member of the Pebble Beach Sports Car club and we are always 
looking for new members.  The PBSCC is one of the oldest sports car clubs in 
the United States.  It was formed in 1952 and incorporated in 1954 and we 
still have at least one member from the 50's.  This club started the race 
scene in the Monterey area and was instremental in the early years of Laguna 
Seca.  We are not a British car club, although most of us own British cars.  
Car ownership is not a requirement for joining the club.  All we ask is that 
you love cars as much as the rest of us do.  Also in case the "Pebble Beach" 
in the name turns you off, it does not refer to the "Pebble Beach" of golf 
course fame but to a small beach up the coast near Half Moon Bay.

Larry Miller


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