Sounds almost like you have an early model (Mk I - III) fixed spring as they
were considerably stiffer than the late model ( Mk IV - 1500) swing spring
(see Paul Ts chart on spring specs:
http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/springs.htm .
Did you replace the spring yourself or have a shop do it? easy to tell the
different construction betwen the two types of spring:
Fixed spring:
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiandiirearsuspension.
html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/earlygt6.html&category=ax
lessuspensiondriveshaftsandwheels
Swing Spring:
http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiiiroadspringanddampe
r.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/gt6mkiii.html&category=axlessuspensiond
riveshaftsandwheels&xsl=diagram.xsl
Or If the replacement is a swing spring then perhaps one meant for a late
model Mk3 GT6 as that is also stiffer than the Spit spring. Have heard that
some suppliers only carry one swing spring for bot Spit & GT6 - check the
thickness of the longest 2 leaves - should be .25". If it is .31 then it's a
GT6 spring.
cheers
Scott
> Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:22:50 -0700
> From: sagreenwood@att.net
> To: spitfires@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Spits] Rear spring with too much arch
>
> About 6 monhts ago I replaced the rear spring on my MkIV with a new one from
Moss Motors in Goleta. The old one was bottoming going over dips in the road.
The problem I have is that the rear wheels now have quite a bit of positive
camber and I can feel the wheels "tucking in " when I go round a corner even
at moderate speeds. The only solutions I can come up with are get the spring
de-arched like Kasner says in his book or put a thick spacer between the diff
and the spring to lift it up so that the drive shafts angle becomes closer to
horizontal. However the spacer idea is a little tricky since it would have to
have a stub to locate in the hole on the diff and then a hole in its' top
side so the stub on the spring bracket would slot in and hence retain the
ability of the spring to pivot. It looks almost impossible to drill holes
lower down in the uprights which carry the drive shafr bearings hence lifting
the drive shafts without using a spacer. I was hoping that the spring would
de-arch itself after a while but I put a load of bricks in the trunk and just
couldn't get to even a zero camber let alone negative camber as it should
be.
> Has anyone come across this problem and found a solution?
> I also notice that Kasner also recommends removing the loop on the second
leaf but this loop looks like it is a safety device in the event> of failure
of the main leaf to upright attachment.
> Stuart a Greenwood
> 71 Mk
> IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag
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