>From my experience, I wouldn't worry. When I rebuilt my 1500 engine in
2002, I used a generic 3 wheeled engine stand. I also used standard fine
thread bolts (with 3 washers under each head) from the hardware store to
hold the engine on the stand. I saw absolutely no issues with strength of
the bolts.
My stand didn't have any plates on the 4 bars that attached to the rotating
spindle section that goes into the stand. It took a bit of fiddling around
before I got the positioning right. The block was not well centered on the
spindle, but it worked OK. The biggest issue was rotating the block in the
stand with the out of balance situation.
I'll see if I have a picture to send you off line.
BillG
Newalla, OK
-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=gingerich.us@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rdambra1@rochester.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:54 PM
To: Nick Moseley
Cc: Spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] Emailing: 80 Spit engine + clean out camera 110
Thanks Nick, it does help. I'm mounting straight to the block itself, no
rear engine plate is on it. I'm starting a restoration and I'm a little
apprehensive of the small bolt diameter that will go into the block casting.
I have fears that the whole thing will break. I'm also using a cheap "Harbor
Freight " type engine stand. The hardware that comes with it is obviously
meant to be used with big American car type engines. The metal tubes that
came with it are also fairly large in diameter, so I'll probably will just
add some washers to distribute the weight over a larger surface area. I'm
not sure if I'll even use the large metal plates that came with it. Maybe I
can bolt the block directly to the "spider" bar, which then slips into the
stand's hole.
thanks,
Bob Dambrauskas
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