Quoting mikeross <mikeross@prodigy.net>:
> I have a stereo conversion for my original Triumph radio that gives me
> AM/FM/CD ability ,with a built in amplifier, a 6 disc CD changer/player and
> an electric retractable antennae.
>
> Lately, I've noticed a very unusual electrical problem. If I have the radio
> on and step on the brake pedal or flip the turn signal lever, the radio goes
> off and the antennae retracts. The fuel gauge, turn signals and brake
> lights
> also quit working. But, it doesn't blow a fuse!
Do they start working again when you let go of the brake pedal?
Do the brake lights work?
Is everything fine when the radio is off?
What year / mark is your beast? -ve earth? That would let us look up the
circuit diagrams and have a think.
OTOMH, I can only think if it's an older car there is not enough power ... but
that's clutching at straws.
> I haven't pulled all the gauges to check the connections yet because I
> wanted
> to run this by those of you with more electrical experience than I.
>
> I had installed a "CirKit Boss Fuse Center", purchased from Victoria British
> to wire in the radio/amplifier and CD player/changer, and the electric
> retractable antennae. The fuse center is grounded directly to the negative
> battery cable. It has two positive leads for power; one coming from an
> "ignition hot" source for the radio and another from a "constant hot" source
> for a clock.
>
> My recollection is that I spliced into the hot wire going to the fuel gauge
> for the "ignition hot" circuit and to the brake light switch wire for the
> "constant hot" circuit. That could explain a relationship between the
> radio,
> brake lights and fuel gauge. I cannot see the connection to the turn
> signals,
> though.
Do the brake lights come on when you turn the volume way up? Heh, I need to
see
a diagram to check the sanity of these connections. I have a feeling you don't
want that connection for the always-on supply, as it's likely AFTER the voltage
regulator... does the fuel gauge read lower when you turn the volume up? ...
but still speculating.
> I used those parallel pinch wire connectors that fold and crimp into the
> source wire causing sharp metal prongs to cut through the insulation and
> contact the strands of wire to make a connection. The wire you're splicing
> is
> also clamped and perforated at the same time, parallel to the source wire
> allowing current to flow through both.
"Scotchlocks" they should be ok for a few years till they start to corrode :-)
> To make things more mysterious, sometimes, if I turn off the radio after
> power is lost and I don't use the brakes or turn signals for a while, I can
> turn on the radio and the antenna goes up and the radio works! Then, I step
> on the brake or flip the turn signal, and it goes off again.
>
> Any thoughts?
I think I need to refer to a circuit diagram! I also think that audio system
with its separate amp is likely a lot more demanding on the electrical system
than a '60s spit will be set up to handle.
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