hi Dan
I have a similar panel to replace on my beast. Butt welding the seam is
possible but it's not always easy to get the two edges aligned well (meaning
lots of grinding and/or filling), plus it is pretty easy to distrort the
panel if you weld too long a section at one time. What I plan on doing
(given my limited bodywork skills) is using the offset flange or "joddling"
method, wherin you make about a half inch wide flange along the length of
the seam edge on the replacement panel that is set back the thickness of the
panel sheet steel. When the new panel is put in place, the flange slides
behind the original bodywork and can be temporarily held in place by a few
pop rivets while you stitch weld it. There's even a device called a joddling
tool (Eastman has it) to put the proper offset crimp into a panel. This
would likely be easier to explain with pictures but couldn't find a site
with any - contact me offline if you want more info. Hope this helps.
cheers
Scott
>From: Dan Canaan <flinters@picarefy.com>
>Reply-To: Dan Canaan <flinters@picarefy.com>
>To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: spot weld removal
>Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 12:05:59 -0700
>
>Well, my search for a home for Giles, my 68 Mk III has come to an end...
>with me! I have found storage for her in my brother's garage next to his
>66 Chevy II. Good company. Woohoo!
>>>
>I haven't tried a patch panel before. I can see removing the old welds
>won't be really an issue and the seams are accessable. The point where the
>patch panel meets the old fender across the top might be tricky though.
>
>-Vegaman Dan
>-Giles, 68 MK III
>---------------------
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