If you use a seringe, with yellow glue in it , squirt the glue under the
crack and use the iron to set it. Cut patches with similar grain to the
broken pieces and do it the same. I can usually find a grain match that you
can not tell where the patch begins.
Flamwood is a bran name product that I found at local paint suppliers. It
is the actual wood fiber with an adhesive that will accept stain. Any
natural fiber filler should work the same way.
Once you have used tung nut oil, you will use nothing else. Cleans up even
if you spill or leave water on it.
Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner@icontech.com>
To: "Greg Schluge" <gschluge@cstone.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2003 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: Re-Veneering dash boards
> Greg,
>
> Excellent idea. Two of the sections (right and center) are almost perfect
> with a real nice warm antique patina, the right side has a few cracks
around
> the SCCA plate. It would be a lot easier to pull that piece and fill in
the
> gaps.
>
> What is Flamwood, I've never heard of it? Is it like a putty/filler you
can
> add a stain or finish too to match the original?
>
> Appreciate the help.
>
> Dave Willner
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 80 Spitfire Carmine Red
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Schluge" <gschluge@cstone.net>
> To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner@icontech.com>
> Cc: "Spitfires" <Spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2003 9:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Re-Veneering dash boards
>
>
> > You may be able to repair the cracks and chips with small pieces of
veneer
> > and a filler like "flamwood" much easier than a complete re-veneering.
I
> do
> > this on a lot of antique furniture and you cannot tell where the repair
is
> > normally. And if you can, it ususally adds some character. I stopped
> using
> > polyurathane on antique furniture or any wood unless it is in the
kitchen
> or
> > bathroom. I find that tung nut oil finish is superior. Mainly because
it
> > is easily re-coated in the event of a scratch. And you get the hand
> rubbend
> > oil finsih that looks great for years.
> >
> > I made dash for my 76 spit 3 years ago out of cherry (looks just like
> > english walnut to me) and finished it with tung nut oil. Still looks
> great
> > and so far has not required any maintanance.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner@icontech.com>
> > To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:36 PM
> > Subject: Re-Veneering dash boards
> >
> >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm going to refinish my dash in the next week or so and wanted to see
> if
> > > there are any good tips, or things to avoid, etc. before I begin. It's
> an
> > '80
> > > and some of the veneer has a few cracks and some small chips, but no
> > warping.
> > > I'm planning on removing the old veneer and then applying new Walnut
> > veneer
> > > with a cherry stain, and then finishing it with about 5 coats of a
good
> > > semi-gloss marine polyurethene with all the usual wet sanding and
ample
> > drying
> > > time between coats. I plan on using white transfer "prestype" for the
> > "LIGHTS"
> > > lettering before the poly. Any BTDT advice would be appreciated. I'll
> > also
> > > document and photo the exercise. TIA
> > >
> > > Dave Willner
> > > 59 TR3A Apple Green
> > > 80 Spitfire Carmine Red
/// spitfires@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|