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RE: Rear spring approx changing time x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

To: "James Carruthers" <j.carruthers@rave.ac.uk>,
Subject: RE: Rear spring approx changing time x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"
From: "Jon" <triumph@bigolbear.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2002 06:01:32 -0500
Hi James,
The Shop Work Estimate pages I have on this say its a 2.5hr job.
But...
As I'm remembering, the first time I did a spring change it took about half
a day including rear shocks working outside the apartment I lived in at the
time and explaining stuff to the onlookers. That was the time I ruined the
rear of the floors with the jack stands in the wrong place. The spring was a
used one I got from a 'tarp dealer' at the Carlisle Import Festival and I
had to replace it again in a few months. It was so soft it let the tires rub
in the wheel arches and don't even start me on the camber! The second was
another used one (these were the 'broke' days and I never seem to learn...)
and took about an hour and a half including replacing a rear brake line and
the pipe that connects it to the wheel cylinder that I trashed by twisting
too much. I guess that sort of averages close to the 2.5 hrs the shop guide
sez allowing 15 minutes for talking to the crowd.
This next time around should be easier, its a new spring and the tub is off
the frame! Hah!

As to tricky? I don't remember anything special. The 1500's can be done
without pulling the half-shafts or shocks- although removing them helps with
clearance and load. Unless you find the bolt that goes through the end
(called the 'spring eye') frozen and have to cut it- its fairly
straightforward. Its a toss up on removing the brake line- I ruined one
through arrogance and stupidity, but did it so I wouldn't have to bleed the
system.
Of course ensure no crud gets into the holes in the top of the pumpkin when
the studs unscrew from it. You can use the old 'second nut' trick to get
tension to back them out.
You might want to change the body mounts while its up on jacks and the
spring is out and touch up any rust on the underside that the spring
normally blocks. Mouse nests that collect up under there underneath are fire
hazards and should be removed when noted...

One other thought- just looked at my new spring, it has 'Front' and a little
arrow stamped on it near the mounting plate- hmmm, never noticed that on the
2 used ones I've mounted... DOH!
Good Luck!

"Any drive you don't return from on a tow truck was a good one..."
Jon
'77 (mostly) 1500 "Ol' Yeller"
FM66043 7U
Nass #104
www.bigolbear.com


-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-owner@autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of James Carruthers
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 6:11 AM
To: spit
Subject: Rear spring approx changing time x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

Hi Listers,

Seeing as my Haynes manual is still trapped in my boot, can anyone
estimate how quickly I can change a rear spring?

And is there anything I should know? Difficult or tricky bits? Bits I
should buy and replace while I am at it?

Just trying to gauge wether or not I can get this done over the
weekend.... hoping its dry....

James

1977 Pimento Red Spit

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