Finally got round to reassembling everything late last night, I now have
a car in one piece! On refitting the caliper it is not entirely central
over the disc, but neither is the other (untouched) side. The caliper is
closest (about 1mm) to the disc on the inside, which suggests that if I
had managed to get the castle nut down so that the normal split pin would
fit through (I used a thinner split pin in the end) then the disc would
have been even closer to the caliper. I think I am now reasonably happy
that all is well!
Thanks everyone VERY much for all of your help you have given me over the
past weeks. One side of the suspension done, one to go. I reckon I can
do this in 4 nights now:
1) Remove everything and press out bushings
2) Clean up wishbones, spring top plate, ARB and hammerite
3) Fit new wheel bearings and clean up hub, fit poly bushings to
wishbones
4) Refit everything and put new brake pads in.
So hopefully in a week or two (off to the lake district for a few days)
Saskia will be back on the road just in time for winter!
cheers all,
John
--- John Kipping <johnkipping@inet.net.nz> wrote:
> John,
> If the hub is in the wrong place then the disc doesn't run central to
> the
> caliper, I can't think that you have done anything wrong, so if the
> disc is
> central then hopefully everything is OK. Obviously don't run with tight
> bearings but you can do the hub nut up tight to see what happens. As
> you
> actually put torque on it the bearings should get tighter but still
> turn,
> can be useful to do this with the wheel on.
> John Kipping
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>
> To: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>;
> <spitfire-enthusiast@yahoogroups.com>; Spitfires mailing list
> <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 2:27 AM
> Subject: [spitfire-enthusiast] Re: hub replacement - update2
>
>
> > I have just made sure that both bearing tracks were fully drifted
> into
> > position by tapping them in again (by using the old bearing tracks,
> > placing these on top of the new ones and tapping the new tracks into
> > place by hammering on the old tracks). I was confident that were all
> the
> > way in before, and it appears that they were. I swapped the new oil
> seal
> > for the old one and stuck the felt to it and tapped this into place.
> > Both seals appeared to be identical so I don't think that this was
> the
> > problem. The top of the oil seal (metal part) is almost flush with
> the
> > edge on the hub, it is very slightly raised from the hub body. After
> all
> > this I still cannot get the castle nut down far enough to get the
> split
> > pin all the way through.
> >
> > I have bought some thinner split pins that will fit through and work
> > fine, I'm just worried that there might be a problem, indicated by
> the
> > difficulties I have had with the split pin, with how I have assembled
> the
> > hub that would cause it to fail. What do you all think? I thought
> about
> > trimming the felt on the oil seal down as suggested by John K, but
> I'm
> > not sure how much difference this would make as the oil seal would
> > compress a fair bit anyway I would imagine.
> >
> > cheers
> > John
> >
> >
> > --- John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> > > I have fitted it with the metal bit against the bearings. When I
> took
> > > the hub apart there was no felt in the old oil seal, I would
> imagine
> > > that
> > > the po had the same problem and removed the felt to solve it. Is
> this
> > > a
> > > common problem? What causes it?
> > >
> > > I'll get my craft knife out tomorrow and trim it down a little.
> > >
> > > Thanks for your help,
> > > cheers,
> > > John
> > >
> > > --- John Kipping <johnkipping@inet.net.nz> wrote:
> > > > John,
> > > > You have a problem with the felt oil seal, check by simply
> removing
> > > it.
> > > > It
> > > > is possible you will have to trim the seal to make everything fit
> OK.
> > > > Hopefully you have fitted the seal with the metal bit holding the
> > > inner
> > > > bearing in place and not as all the parts book show.
> > > > John Kipping
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: John Hobson <goalie_john@yahoo.co.uk>
> > > > To: Spitfire Enthusiast <spitfire-enthusiast@yahoogroups.com>;
> > > > Spitfires
> > > > mailing list <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 6:14 AM
> > > > Subject: [spitfire-enthusiast] hub replacement
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I have just been finishing off the replacement of the front
> wheel
> > > > > bearings. On tightening the new castle head nut it won't
> tighten
> > > > down
> > > > > far enough to get the split pin through. I tried using the old
> > > > castle
> > > > > head nut, but I still couldn't get the split pin in. Why would
> > > this
> > > > be
> > > > > happening? I'm sure that I drifted the bearing tracks fully
> into
> > > > place.
> > > > > The only other difference from before is that the felt on the
> oil
> > > > seal
> > > > > was missing from the old bearings. I tightened the nut down
> and
> > > > turned
> > > > > the hub to settle the bearings as recommended in haynes, but
> still
> > > no
> > > > > joy.
> > > > >
> > > > > What's up folks? How can I fix it? Once the hub is done I
> will be
> > > a
> > > > > position to finally put the rhs of the front suspension back
> > > together
> > > > > after 2 months off the road! Then I only have the other side
> to do
> > > > which
> > > > > I hope will take considerably less time than the 1 month it has
> > > taken
> > > > me
> > > > > to do the rhs!
> > > > >
> > > > > cheers
> > > > > John & Saskia the spitfire
> > > > > http://www.spit1500.co.uk/
> > > > > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
> > > > > http://personals.yahoo.com
Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals.
http://personals.yahoo.com
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