Howard,
I have not done the conversion myself, it was done for my by my not-so-D PO.
However, I've eaves-dropped on others discussing their conversions, so this is
what I have picked up:
Firstly, you do not need to pull the engine. The easiest way in is to remove
the dash support (panel below the dash where the radio goes), remove the
carpet over the gearbox tunnel, and you can get to the gearbox from inside the
car just by removing the cardboard gearbox cover. This is easier if you
remove the seats. Having succeeded in removing the gearbox and bell-housing
assembly single-handed, I can HIGHLY recommend getting at least one friend,
preferably more, to help! Oh yes, remember to remove the clutch cylinder
before pulling the gearbox out (no need to disconnect from the pipe, just tie
it up so it is supported while the gbox is out). The books say to loosen the
clamp bolt - in fact you need to remove the bolt completely.
The gearbox is different for o/d and non-o/d. I believe the only difference is
the output shaft, so you can (if you are so inclined) replace the shaft
yourself - or get a gearbox re-builder to do it for you. You also need a
different gear-lever extension, a different gear-knob with a built-in o/d
switch, and an o/d wiring harness. This is very simple, so there is a
temptation to make it yourself - this is what my DPO did, and I suffered
random switching on-and-off of the o/d for almost a year until I spend about 2
quid on a proper harness. There is a lesson there!
You also need a different, slightly shorter, prop-shaft, and the correct
mounting bracket to the frame. I think that's it in terms of the other parts
you'll need.
With the correct shaft sticking out of the back of the gearbox, the o/d just
bolts on (with a gasket). Gearlever extension bolts onto the top of the
gearbox and o/d. Then bolt the bell-housing back up to the engine, the o/d to
the frame, and the new propshaft in place. The wiring harness should plug
into the existing connector that currently is in-line in the wire leading to
the reversing light switch. The new harness still goes to the reversing light
switch, it also goes to the base of the gearlever (where a separate wire runs
up through the centre of the lever to the switch at the top), the return from
the switch goes to a switch at the base of the lever (which is on only when
the lever is in 3rd or 4th), and from that switch down to the o/d solonoid.
Top up the gearbox oil. You need non-hypoid oil, as the hypoid oil is too
slippery and the clutch in the o/d will slip. Replace the gearbox tunnel and
the gear-lever (and the seats!), and you should be ready to go! Oh yes,
remember to put the clutch slave cylinder back!
I've probably forgotten something, but this should give you the general idea of
what you need, and what needs doing...
Richard & Daffy
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