Could this be the problem?......on the bi-metal
cover,there are three screws that, when loosened,
the white? plastic cover should rotate in either
direction.This is what triggers the flapper to shut
or open. I took the air filter off,loosened the
3screws,rotated the plastic cover untill the
flappers shut.Do this with the engine cold. Don't
forget to retighten the screws. Behind the
bi-metal devise is an adjustment screw that somehow
determines where there flapper position is. I
haven't quite figured out what the ideal setting is
on this screw. Here's a link to set the other
adjustments..............http://www.racetep.com/web
eradj.html
Let us know how thing work out.
Dave
From: Bradley D Richardson
<bradrichardson@juno.com>
To: <nass@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <nass@yahoogroups.com>;
<spitfires@autox.team.net>;
<spitfire-enthusiast@egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: { NASS } Weber HELP!!!
Donald.
Yep, clearly not the problem I'm having. In my
case, it acts like the
'natural' position is with the choke plate open.
If we hold it manually
closed, while the car is starting, it pushes
against your finger, trying
to 'force' itself back open. Like I said, as if
the 'natural' position
is open.
And, still not solved. Anyone out there understand
Webers?
Brad
==========
On Sun, 1 Jul 2001 11:31:11 -0400 (EDT) Donald H
Locker
<dhl@chelseamsl.com> writes:
Hi, Brad.
I'm not sure how much this will help, and I'm not
familiar with Webers
in any case, but the power to the choke mechanism
is used to OPEN the
choke after the engine has started. So electricity
to the choke
mechanism is irrelevant, unless it's there all the
time.
If the electric connection goes to a small
cylindrical housing on the
outside of the carb, into which the choke shaft
goes, I will guess
that the bimetallic spring inside of it is broken
or otherwise
detached from either the choke shaft or a fixed
location on the
housing. When cool (without power applied,) the
bimetallic spring
should allow the choke plate to close, which is its
"natural"
position. After starting, the electricity heats
the bimetallic
element to open the choke up. So no electricity
(broken wire, engine
not running, ...) should close the choke -- clearly
not your problem.
HTH.
Donald.
> From: Bradley D Richardson
<bradrichardson@juno.com>
> Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 17:39:40 -0700
>
> ----__JNP_000_540a.3192.338f
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Electric choke checked today, I have power to it.
>
> Help anyone!!! What do I do now? This choke
isn't working at all,
> unless we manually hold the 'butterfly plates'
closed with our fingers.
>
> Specifics. Weber with electric choke, witting on
a Cannon intake
> manifold. It appears to be a DGV, (similar, but
not exactly like the
DGV
> shown in the latest Victoria British catalog), 2
barrels, make in
Italy.
>
> Brad
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