>The car runs, but roughly. I've replaced points, condenser, plugs, cap,
>rotor, wires, set point gap correctly, etc., but it is still rough. The left
>carb. piston causes the engine to drop revs. When raised, but the right-hand
>one shows no effect when raising the piston. Idle is a wee bit high, 900 to
>~1300 RPM, power is inconsistent, sometimes it feels good, other times it
has
>no power, except at higher revs.
Not unusual- carbs are unbalanced.
>The car wasn't run in 3-4 years, as I said, the gas tank was rusty, and
there
>was water in the lines. I would guess that some of the problems are due to
>crap in the fuel system, but I'm not sure where to start with tuning the
>carbs. Should I run it as is to blow out junk in the fuel system or trying
>tuning them from scratch? What have you found to be the most effective way
to
>tune badly out of tune SU HS2's?
Screw the mixture jets at the bottom of the carbs fully up until the nuts
are seated firmly and the 'nose' or top of the jet assembly is flush with
the air fuel mixure- remove the dashpots so you can see this easier. Now
unscrew the jets one and a half turns. Reassemble the dash pots and that's
the base line- it's close enough to get you running to where you can now
start fine tuning the carbs. The next step is to make sure that both the
front and rear carbs are passing the same amount of air and that requires
loosening the linkage so that each carb is running loose independant of the
throttle. Adjust each idle screw on each carb until the air volume is the
same. A piece of heater hose or similar held at the throat and to your ear
is a good way to isolate the sound of the air volume. Once you get them
balanced, you'll probably need to go in and start adjusting the actual
air/fuel mixture jets again, screwing them in/up to lean out the carb and
out/down to richen the mixture. That's when you'll be lifting the piston a
tad to see if the engine speeds up and then settles down (ideal). It's a
tricky thing to do, and fun as well. :) A colortune sparkplug is cheating-
and if I had one I'd use it too. Heh.
Also, there appears to be no provision on
>the transmission for a backup switch, and It appears that the tranny is a
>replacement from an earlier model. Did the Spitfire 4's and Mk.2's have a
>switch for the reverse lights?
>Any help you folks can give would be appreciated.
Reverse lights didn't make their debut until the MkIII. The Mk II donor I
have here doesn't even have reverse lights. The Mk III has a switch on the
transmission.
-Vegaman Dan (Who is busy trying to remove the piston from a clutch master
cylinder)
________________________________________________________________________
| | 1968 Triumph Spitfire Mk III * Furry Artist |
| Flinthoof |--------------------------------------------------------|
| | MINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINT!! |
| Dan |--------------------------------------------------------|
| Canaan | ConiFur NorthWest 2001 - Furries in Seattle! |
| |--------------------------------------------------------|
| CONIFUR NW | Flinters@picarefy.com * http://jarmac.picarefy.com |
|_____________|________________________________________________________|
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