Michael,
an excellent point.
I would use a cleanup cutter on the lugnut hole seats
to remove any powdercoat or paint. Most aftermarket
wheels have clean seats.
Anyone know the spec on the Spitfire lugnuts, ie, what
angle is the bevel?
Carter Shore
--- "Michael D. Porter" <mporter@zianet.com> wrote:
....
> I work for a heavy-equipment manufacturer, and we
> have, over the years,
> experienced some difficulties with powder-coated
> wheels. The principal
> problem is that when the wheel nuts are not torqued
> completely to the
> high end of the spec, there is just enough give in
> powder-coating that
> the wheel can pound on the hub, and the powder-coat
> at the mating area
> pulverizes, flakes off and the wheel loosens up.
>
> If one is going to powder-coat the wheels, I would
> recommend a couple of
> things to make the installation safe. First, mask
> off just the areas
> where the wheel contacts the hub and where the lug
> nuts contact the
> wheel. If the first step is impractical or
> unworkable, ensure that the
> lug nuts and studs are good, and that all are
> torqued properly to the
> upper part of the recommended torque range for the
> lug nuts.
>
> In either case, a powder-coated wheel should be
> treated the same as an
> aluminum wheel--torque to recommended setting, run
> approximately 800
> miles of normal driving and then re-torque.
>
> Cheers, all.
>
> --
>
> Michael D. Porter
> Roswell, NM
> [mailto: mporter@zianet.com]
>
> `70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
> `71 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
> `72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
> `64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
> `80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
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