Thanks for the reply... but I think the listserver is messed up a bit.. look
at the date on the message.
I ender up replacing the oil pressure switch with an earlier model with two
wires.. the Turn signal, as I recall, was fixed by running a separate ground
wire... and the ig switch connection I did figure out eventually.. did you
know that if the light DOESN"T come on at all when the key is turn.. the
generator is bad...!
Visit my DYI circle cutting jig page at:
http://www.sound.net/~ckigar/circle.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>
To: ckigar <ckigar@sound.net>; spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: Electrical puzzles '80 spit
>Chip,
>
>Ooh, you have got a lot of fun with that car! I hate electrical problems,
and
> at least my car has almost all original wiring, apart from a couple of
minor
> mods I made (cigar lighter wire used as live source for radio and clock,
> extension to light switch wiring to enable switch relocation, so clock
could
> go where light switch was). Wiring circuits should be reasonably logical,
and
> you should be able to fix anything with a wiring diagram an patience, so
any
> 'bodges' introduced by the PO are almost bound to be bad repairs to fix a
> fundamantal problem that, in all likelihood, still remains as no-one has
ever
> tried to fix it properly.
>
>From the start -
>
>Your lift indicator flashing while the dashlight stays on is very bizarre.
One
> relay controls all the indicators - there should be a live to the relay,
then
> the other side of the relay goes to the switch, which will connect to
either
> the left or right lights, plus the dash light (this is from memory, I
don't
> have the diagram in front of me, so I MIGHT be wrong - check the diagram).
> BTW, if you have the original drivers handbook from the car, the wiring
> diagram in there is easier to follow than the one in the Haynes Manual.
In
> any case, the supply to the switch is already on/off, so how a permanent
live
> can reach the lamp I have no idea - you will just have to take the lamp
and
> follow the wire lighting it, and see where it goes.
>
>The left indicator not working when the headlights are on may be easier to
> solve. My guess is that the indicator is not properly earthed, and
somehow is
> earthing via the headlights (maybe through the side-lights and/or brake
> lights). Thus, when the lights are on, the earth route is suddenly live,
so
> there is nowhere for the electricity to go. Check the continuity from the
> front and rear bulbs to earth, and clean up the connections. You could
> install an extra earth wire connecting the lamp cluster casing to the car
body
> just to be sure.
>
>Earthing problems can cause all sorts of problems that are hard to track
down.
> Often the symptom bears very little connection to the cause (e.g. poor
> indicators caused by inadequatley earthed brake lights). You just have to
> check and clean all the connections. A useful method is to go round
checking
> everything vaguely related to the circuit you are testing with a voltmeter
(or
> one of those screwdriver-looking things with a light in the handle that
just
> tell you if something is live), you will often bump into a wire that is
live
> when you would not expect it to be, or vice versa.
>
>How the ignition light is connected should be clear from the wiring
diagram.
> Off the top of my head, it should go between the live terminal of the
ignition
> coil (or anything directly connected to that, including the ignition
switch
> terminal, which would be easier), and the live terminal of the alternator.
> Thus, if the alternator is not generating anything, you have battery
voltage
> one side, 0V on the other, bulb lights. When the alternator is charging
you
> have full voltage both sides of the lamp, so no voltage drop across the
bulb,
> so bulb stays off.
>
>I cannot see what the oil pressure warning light would have to do with the
> anti-run-on valve, or why they should be connected in any way. I cannot
check
> right now on a wiring diagram, but I would expect that a live would feed
to
> the bulb, which would then be connected to the switch. With no oil
pressure,
> the switch would close the connection to earth (via cylinder block), bulb
> would light, with oil pressure the switch opens and the bulb does not
light.
> I repeat, this would be my expectation, without ever having got involved
with
> this circuit or looked at the diagram myself!
>
>Are you saying that your switch has a total of 3 connectors on it? Aah,
I've
> had a thought about the anti-run-on valve - this may be an automatic
cut-off
> device to protect you from your own incompetance - if the oil pressure
drops,
> the anti-run-on valve would be activated, and that would kill the engine
> before any damage is done. The anti-run-on valve would probably just be a
> valve in the inlet manifold which would open to allow extra air in, to
prevent
> the car running by weakening the mixture. This would normally operate
when
> the engine is switched off to prevent that diesel-sounding rattley running
> that can continue for a few seconds after the ignition is off,
particularly
> in a hot engine, or one with a lot of carbon build-up in the head. If you
> don't have a valve, don't connect the connector, everthing else will still
run
> fine.
>
>As you might have gathered I am not a total expert in the field, but no-one
> else has replied yet, so I thought you might appreciate the benefit of my
> limited experience!
>
>Richard and Daffy (electrical gremlins were eventually tamed after 3 months
of
> ownership, all fine since, touch wood(en dashboard))
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