Ron, Just to add onto what Nolan said, since I have had success rebuilding my
system and bleeding completely with the classic method, I simply close the
bleed nipple by hand when the pedal is raised to prevent any drawback then open
on the push down. Definitely a two person job but you get in sync and it does
not take long once you get going just the person at the bleed nipple controls
when the pedal pusher raises and lowers the pedal. I did prefill/bleed the
master out of the car first. Never had to use any grease on the nipples either.
Just have lots of fluid handy and watch the master fluid level. Once it starts
coming through it can go down pretty quickly.
Alan
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Nolan Penney npenney@mde.state.md.us
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 06:38:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Problems w/bleeding brakes
Yes, you'll suck air around the bleed nipple, creating the illusion of air in
the
brake system. It's an inherent drawback to vacuum bleeding brakes. I
understand
that the ez-bleed nipples do not exhibit this, but I've never used them, so I
cannot
say for sure. Some have had success with using grease around the threads of
the nipple.
You're also fighting empty lines. As thin as brake fluid is, air is even
thinner.
Trying to bleed down using classic techniques is a loosing battle. I'd
recommend
a pressure bleeder for this job myself. That works, and works well. That's why
the factories use this, as do good shops. Pretty cheap to buy, about 25-30
dollars.
If you're going to try it with classic techniques (push the pedal, bleed,
repeat), start
at the top and work your way down. Start bleeding at the side of the master
cylinder
by cracking the line, having the assistant push the pedal down, expelling air,
close the
fitting, and release the pedal. Repeat until you stop bleeding out air. DO
NOT PUMP!
Repeat all the way down the lines.
If you ever really want to be slick at getting air out of your brake lines,
replumb them,
but do it so that the lines run smoothly and steadily up to the master
cylinder. Then
you can bleed them by cracking the line at the master cylinder. Air rises, so
the air
bubbles will go up to this point. Even slicker, have a designed high spot in
the line
with a bleed port built into it. This keeps the air from getting into your
master
cylinder.
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