MD emissions inspections don't involve you opening the hood. They only do that
if you (a) fail the test, and (b) then want them to help you possibly diagnose
the problem.
MD emissions inspections also don't care about your idle speed. So don't get to
worried about setting a true "correct" idle speed. As long as you are
comfortable with whatever idle speed, let it go at that.
As for emissions stuff (I've got a 1980), the only one that truly got me was
when I attempted to disconnect the carbon cans. I never did quite figure that
one out, but without that vacuum leak for the carburetor, mine would run exactly
line you describe yours running. EGR and air pumps don't cause the symptoms you
describe.
However, you seem to be saying this all started when you swapped transmissions.
If that's the case, re-review what you removed and reinstalled to do this job.
The problem is almost assuredly there.
david_schenck wrote:
> List,
>
> I have finally got my new trans in and can almost drive my car. I have a
> tuning problem. I can't seem to get my car tuned right. I read the tuning
> instructions in the books and they say to check timing, valves, etc and then
> get car to idle at 900 and adjust the carb. I can't seem to get my car
> running anywhere below 1500 (without stalling out) and it has absolutely no
> power it putters when I accelerate. I have a '78 with some of the emissions
> equipment in place but it is certainly not functional. I need to keep the
> appearance of the original emissions equipment for the MD emissions test.
> What am I missing or can I do to get this thing running half-way decently?
> Should I try to replace the emissions stuff with stuff that works? Do I not
> have some of stuff blocked off? What have people done to block the old
> emissions equipment? Any suggestions would be great!!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
>
> '78 Spit in Baltimore
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