I just did my second head R+R. Yes, it will come off in an hour
if nothing is stuck.
A Haynes book has plenty of info.
Tips:
0: Clean the engine well before you start. Try to get it steam-cleaned.
1: Running the started after you loosen the nuts
should help loosen the head.
2: Plan to replace the washers under the head nuts. Get the proper
ones from a Spit parts supplier (not from the hardware store).
Probably it is a good idea to replace the nuts, too.
3: Get a decent torque wrench. It is a lifetime investment.
4: Don't let crud fall into the valve lifters or oil or water passages
while the head is off.
5: Inspect the valve lifters while you have the chance.
6: Don't forget to get a new water pump housing gasket. ($1.00)
7: Use anti-seize on the manifold studs when you reassemble. On my
engine, I can remove the manifold nuts with my fingers once they are loosened.
8: If your gas tank is relatively full, gas can siphon out when you disconnect
the fuel line from the carb. Disconnect the line to the fuel pump and plug it!
9: Inspect the two core plugs on the rear of the head. They are 100x easier
to replace when the head is off the car. Thay can rust out from the inside.
Same with the three plugs on the block under the manifolds. They are easy to
replace once you remove the manifolds and water pipe. A couple of mine
were weeping coolant.
Good Luck,
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
At 08:09 AM 9/7/00 -0700, you wrote:
>OK...so the consensus seems to be that even with the shop removing the head,
>reinstalling etc, that 600 is tooooo high.
>
>So, just how technically nasty is reinstalling the head? Is there something
>out there other than my Haynes manual for guidance? I can get it off the
>block in about an hour from what it looks like.
>Any tripping points?
>Any tripping points on the reinstall?
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