I don't remember the proper name, but I figured you'd understand me using the
phrase panel pins. I was hoping that's what Eastwood calls them in their
catalogs. In any case, their like removable, reusable pop rivet. I've no
direct personal experience with them to recommend any particular type.
As for going around the entire panel seams, no you don't have to. But, ever see
cars showing a straight line rust edge where a patch panel was installed?
They'll do that because water will creep its way under an open edge. Once you
master MIG welding (it's a blast btw), you'll probably want to do it anyhow.
Yes, you're right about a series of short stitches. But you really want to
practice doing it on a bunch of scrap metal to learn about how the heat
disipates, how long it takes to cool down, etc. I'll be real interested to hear
about your future plans, as well as how this job goes for you.
Something you might want to pick up is one of the books on restoring Spitfires.
One of the book vendors at a show had several of them, and I selected one of
them (don't remember which one right now) after looking through them all. It
covered sill replacement and some other things in superb detail. Worth its
weight in gold to me for all the questions and concerns of mine that it
answered. It allowed me (a body working boob) to go from believing I probably
couldn't repair my own sills, to thinking probably I can. That could be
dangerous of course! So I'll practice it first on my parts car body.
Michael Nugent wrote:
> Thanks. I presume "expensive panel pins" are generic Clecos, right? And
> would the entire perimeter on the underside necessarily be welded as well as
> the interior perimeter?
>
> I'll get some practice before I start - so far I've just watched a couple of
> videos and a lot of welding demonstrations on Shadetree Mechanic, Trucks,
> HotRod TV, etc. Tack first, go back and fill in a short section at a time .
> . . wait 'til you hear about my plans beyond the floorpan repair!
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