What I always do, is use the back tie downs that the factory used to ship
them over here. I use one "load hugger" strap around the front frame, kept
from sliding by the front "anti-roll" bar. Pulling forward. Then use the
rear tie downs pulling back with another road hugger. That's it. They do
not have to be super tight, as you want the cars suspension to still work.
I've thought about using baskets on the front so that you don't put any
pressure on the front anti-roll bar, but I doubt the little pressure on it
will hurt. Works great, moved quite a few cars that way.
Oh, Also, never tow a car on a trailer backwards. I did this once with a
parts spit, only to have a door pop open. Those things really catch the
wind, and will fold back and do some damage. ouch.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-spitfires@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spitfires@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ree Gurley
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2000 12:16 PM
To: Spitfire List
Subject: Trailer Tie-downs
I'm awaiting completion of my "Spit-Trailer" - basically a 6&1/2' x 14'
3500# landscape/utility single-axle unit - slightly modified with electric
brakes, H-D tiedowns, beefed-up ramp/gate & angle-iron "chocks" - to be
towed with a 4wd 4.3L Sonoma.
Any comments from you experienced Spit-towers on the various tie-down
methods to secure the Spit onto the trailer? ISTR that Joe Curry mentioned
using the strap/ratchet deals that go over the wheels. Some of the
race-guys up here use straps from the suspension criss-crossed to the
tie-downs (on the opposite side). Bill Miller - planning to tow the Suchak
Spit from FL to IN - must have a good set-up in mind.
FWIW, I'm talking about long-range towing on the interstates. All
comments & observations on tie-down methods, from you folks with more
experience & knowledge than I, will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Ree Gurley in Mexico, NY - (sans) 78 Spit FM73070U O
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