Jeff,
Good guide - I hope this helps many people. One thing to mention - you talk
about clunks from the rear end being universal joint wear. They could also be
excessive play in the differential. UJs cost about 8 pounds (UK) to replace,
diffs cost about 300 pounds, both take about a couple of hours work. If there
is a UJ problem, I'd buy it, if there is a diff problem, I would not take it
without a serious discount to allow for the new diff I'd have to buy.
When talking about the suspension, it is worth mentioning that most Spitfires
lean to the drivers side, and this in itself is not a reason to walk away from
a car (or you'll never find one to buy!). If the lean is serious, make sure
the front springs aren't broken, although they are quite cheap to replace.
Plus, of course, the usual check of pressing down on the wing, and ensuring it
returns quickly but without bouncing, to check that the shock absorbers are
OK.
You don't mention about checking the condition of the hood (soft-top as you'd
call it, not what we call the bonnet!) - no cracks, no tears, seams not coming
apart, windows clear and uncracked - although I guess this should be obvious!
I have a general principle - if there is one thing serious wrong, but the rest
is OK, I don't walk away completely - I check the catalogues for how much the
duff part would take to replace, and haggle that much off what I would
otherwise pay.
There is also the whole subject of modifications from standard spec. - SU v.
Stromberg v. Weber carbs, manifolds/headers, loud exhausts, S/S exhausts,
camber compensators, modified camshafts etc. etc. - but whether these are
worthwhile is a matter of personal taste, and anyway the subject is probably
way too complex to try and put into your buyers guide!
I hope some of this helps, without turning the guide into something the size of
The Bible!
Richard and Daffy
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