Hello,
As a follow up to the original ZS question, I have since gone in and
flat-out disconnected all appurtenances that I thought were unneeded.
1. Vacuum line to airpump
2. Vacuum line that leads to EGR? valve underneath carb.
3. Vacuum port on the intake manifold between #3 and #4 runners.
Engine now idles MUCH better. Bucking and surging is gone (or almost).
EGR is probably the big culprit. I have also noted that the "gulp valve" is
missing. Big open hose underneath the existing charcoal canister. If I
plug it while the engine is running, the engine quits; immediately if not
sooner. I do mean RIGHT NOW.
Any other ideas on things to check?
For those who answered and got me this far...THANKS!
John
'75 Spit
Sometimes sticky EGR's can be 'fixed' by removeing the part
and applying a generous dose of carb cleaner.
Fred Thomas wrote:
>
> Jim, I just went through the same symptoms, the EGR valve on my car was
not
> opening, replaced it and she now runs fine, the exhaust pressure is not
> being released so this will cause a loss of power as it backs up in the
> engine, a big orange drink is fine. "FT"
--
Reed Mideke rfm(at)cruzers.com
If that doesn't work: rfm(at)portalofevil.com
InterBase build instructions: www.cruzers.com/~rfm
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