You can leave the window mechanism in place, but you need to
make a hook-shaped tool from a strip of metal to pull the clips
into place. The various books (Haynes, etc.) have a picture of it.
Some have said that the piece of metal that you can salvage from an old
seal will work, but I found it to be too flimsy.
The most annoying thing for me was removing the inner door panels
yet again. Every time you remove and replace them, they get
one step closer to disintegrating completely...
While you're inside the door, take some time to clean and lube things,
and check for loose or missing blots, clips, etc.
Here are some tips from my experience installing new outer seals:
1: Carefully trim any excess rubber (from the molding process) from
the locations where the clips grip the seals.
2: Consider changing all the clips, since you can see them from inside
the car, and the old rusty ones will look ugly next to the shiny new
seals.
3: Get one of those handy magnet-on-a-stick tools for when you drop
the seals down inside the door.
4: You may need to trim the front outer corner of the outer seals
a tiny bit if it interferes with the door frame when the door is closed.
5: If the windows can be rolled up too far, the part of the mechanism that
actually holds the class can push the seals out of position when
the window is rolled up. The adjustment is sort of tricky- you have
bend the tops of the window guide channels (which get narrower for
the last inch or so). Over time, they can get spread out at the top,
allowing those nylon blocks that slide within them to go higher than
they should. If the nylon blocks are especially worn, it can make
the problem worse.
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
At 09:06 AM 6/30/00 -0400, you wrote:
>When the inner and outer waist seals are installed, is it necessary to remove
>the windows and all of the crank paraphenalia? If not, how much do you have
>to remove if anything and do you need any special tools? Is it a major
>project?
>Steve M
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