---------------------- Forwarded by Richard B Gosling/1M/Caterpillar on
21/06/2000 02:59 PM ---------------------------
Richard B Gosling
21Jun2000 02:58 PM
To: gschluge@cstone.net @ INTERNET
cc:
Subject: RE: Dash restoration
Retain Until: 21/07/2000 Retention Category: G90 - Information and
Reports
Caterpillar Confidential: Green
Thanks for the reply - but you are beginning to lose me here, I don't know much
about wood treatment! What exactly is meant by 'cut some of the loose wood
grain'? You say that 'water based products will cause the grain to raise, oil
base does not' - what is meant by 'causing the grain to rise', and is this a
good or a bad thing? If bad, how bad?
Many thanks for your advice!
Richard and Daffy
gschluge@cstone.net on 21Jun2000 02:48 PM
To: Richard B Gosling/1M/Caterpillar@Caterpillar
cc:
Subject: RE: Dash restoration
Retain Until: 21/07/2000 Retention Category: G90 - Information and
Reports
Caterpillar Confidential: Green
I use a product from 3M called Scotch Brite. It is plastic steel wool
and
is available in many grades. It is available at Home Despot or any
hardware. Whether it be tung nut oil or polyurethane, you need to cut some
of the loose wood grain between coats. Water based products will cause the
grain to raise, oil base does not.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard B Gosling [mailto:Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 5:44 AM
To: spitfires
Cc: OHFASTONE; technical; mikep; cplimey; weberjm; HD883HUGGR; sujitroy;
Tburke4; steph71tr6; gschluge
Subject: RE: Dash restoration
Thanks to all of you (Michael, Graham, Mike, Philip, John, Scott, Sujit,
Tom,
Steph, Greg - God, there's a lot of you helpful guys out there!) who have
advised me on how to improve my dash.
I reckon the veneer is OK, it is just the lacquer that is dodgy. So,
combining
the best of all advice, my plan is -
1 - Try and remove the old lacquer with a heat gun (only because I have one,
so
it is cheaper than buying stripper!)
2 - If that fails, remove the old laquer with chemical stripper
3 - Lightly sand (by hand, not machine, going along the grain) with 320 grit
just to smooth the surface - being careful not to go through the veneer
4 - Coat the back and sides with teak oil
5 - Apply 4-5 coats of water-based polyurethane - someone advised that it
dried
quicker than oil-based, so I can do more than one coat in an evening -
using a
foam brush.
I have seen some advice suggesting sanding with wet wet'n'dry paper
(1600-2000
grit) between each coat. Since Daffy is a long way from perfect inside
anyway
(torn, stained seats, door trims not too well attatched, foam poking out of
the arm-rest) I am not attempting perfection, just an improvement that will
cost me very little, so would the wet'n'dry make a lot of difference? If
not,
I probably won't bother, life is too short!
Does this plan seem sound to everyone? If so, I'll go ahead and get back to
you in a week with the results!
Richard and Daffy
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