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Re: [Fwd: Re: J O.D.]

To: Spit list <spitfires@autox.team.net>,
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: J O.D.]
From: Mike Ginter <mginter@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 10:22:25 -0600
Please... Still need help with this issue and an answer to the question
I asked regarding John's reply to the original post.  HELP!

Mike

Mike Ginter wrote:
> 
> C'mon folks help me out here.  I need to tear apart a couple of OD's
> tomorrow.
> 
> Mike
> 
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: J O.D.
> Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 22:07:03 -0600
> From: Mike Ginter <mginter@concentric.net>
> To: "John J. Black" <transmancat@bbnow.net>,Spit list
> <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> References: <NEBBJLIBKLGHDKOPDHIIIEKBCFAA.transmancat@bbnow.net>
> 
> Thanks John, I appreciate the response very much.  From the diagrams
> I've seen, I think your referring to a D type OD.  Mine is a J type and
> the only check ball that requires "seating" is the non return valve
> which is similar to what you describe but in the J type it is one of the
> bottom orifices not on the top as is the case with the D type.  Anyway,
> what is the importance of seating the check ball in the valve plate?  I
> did service all of the orifice o-rings and filters, but when I put the
> non return valve back in I could not get the check ball to stay in the
> spherical hole in the valve plate.  Does it have to "stick and stay" in
> the plate?  It would appear that the spherical hole in the plate is too
> large or the check ball is too small.
> 
> "John J. Black" wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike
> > At the rear of the OD on the top right hand side you will find a brass plug,
> > remove this plug and it will give you access to the operating valve, remove
> > it and the ball bearing, after cleaning both of them and the hole that they
> > go into they should be reseated. This is done by replacing them both in the
> > hole and giving them a GENTLE tap with a hammer and punch, this will reseat
> > the ball.
> > That is my best suggestion with the information that you have given us.
> > Regards
> > John J Black
> > Waterloo Drivetrain Systems
> > www.waterloo-dtr.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-spitfires@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:owner-spitfires@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mike Ginter
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 10:01 PM
> > To: Spit list
> > Subject: J O.D.
> >
> > Here's another one.
> >
> > My OD works fine when the gearbox is cold.  It will continue to work
> > even after the gearbox heats up provided it is not disengaged when hot.
> > The first time it is disengaged when hot, it will not re-engage.  When
> > the gearbox is hot and the OD is turned on, it will engage with no
> > load.  As soon as the throttle is applied under this condition, the OD
> > slips out again.  When I let up on the throttle (no load) it will
> > re-engage and so on and so on...
> >
> > After I replaced the clutch, I refilled the gearbox with 30w motor oil
> > (my 79 has had 30w in it for 5 years and operates flawlessly).  I
> > services the OD filter and replaced all the o-rings I could get to
> > without removing the unit.  I even swapped out a solenoid.  Same
> > results.  This morning I drained the 30w and replaced it with 85w140.
> > It does the same thing, but it operates a little longer than it did
> > before, and now after only cooling down for a couple of hours it will
> > operate normally until of course, the gearbox heats up again.  It is a
> > tiny bit better though.
> >
> > I have two theories (BTW - The day after I bought this car last October
> > it began this behavior and has been this way ever since.)
> >
> > 1)      Someone at some point put synthetic fluid (fluif? Joe you
> > listening?) in the gearbox and maybe after enough gear oil      changes I
> > can finally get it flushed out and it will behave       normally all the 
>time
> > (wishful thinking I know).
> >
> > 2)      This appears to me to be a fluid/pressure issue.  Could it be   the 
>OD
> > clutch linings?  What are the odds on one or the other?
> >
> > Any opinions/brainstorming are welcome.
> >
> > Mike

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