Hi Jeff,
In my opinion get the lid shot blasted. This will take it back to bare metal
and show any holes and filled areas that need welding or refilling. When the
lid is primed you know you are painting on a rust free surface therefore the
resultant spray job will yield a better finish and last longer.
I got a boot lid from a fellow lister who said (in good faith) that the lid
was definitely repairable, this was true but it was full of filler and was
would not have been cost effective so I ended up buying a new one for £135
(~$200).
Good luck,
Pete.
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1976 Spitfire 1500
Body off restoration and hopefully soon to be a fair weather driver
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff McNeal [mailto:jmcneal@ohms.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 11:23 PM
To: Spitfire List
Subject: Bodywork 101
Hi everyone. I just purchased a salvaged trunk lid from a fellow lister
since it's in better shape than the one I have now, which is so rusty that I
was planning on replacing it anyway.
The lid that I just received has some very small areas of light surface rust
and a deep scratch in the paint. What I'd really like to do here, is try my
hand at prepping this piece for paint. I've never done any sheetmetal work
at all. I just know that I have to get rid of the rust and give the whole
thing a good coat of primer.
Where do I begin? Do I buy a gallon of Airplane stripper and melt off the
paint, then get a sanding disc or a scotchbright pad for my drill and attack
the rust? Or would it be cheaper/better to just take the whole thing out
somewhere for a good sandblasting? If I opt for the latter, the
sandblasting takes out the rust, right? So then, what's left for me to do,
other than prime and lightly sand and prime again?
Could it be that simple??
Best wishes,
Jeff in San Diego
'67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka "Mrs. Jones"
Jeff's Classic '67 Spitfire Mk3 site
http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml
home of the NEW Totally Triumph Auction
"By Triumph enthusiasts, for Triumph enthusiasts"
http://www.ohms.com/cgi-bin/TRauction.cgi
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