I knew I'd forget something.
> ----------
> From: Craig Smith[SMTP:CraigS@iewc.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 9:49 AM
> To: 'Banbury, Terrence'; Kevin Rhodes; 'Bill Kelly'
> Cc: Spitfire List
> Subject: RE: Spark plugs and dash refinishing
>
> After the stain you need apply and Sanding Sealer. This will hold down the
> grain in the wood so it won't "POP" up after all your fine sanding.
> The sealer gives you a good base to sand to a fine state. Then apply your
> poly or other finish.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Banbury, Terrence [mailto:Terrence.Banbury@dnr.state.oh.us]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 8:28 AM
> To: Kevin Rhodes; 'Bill Kelly'
> Cc: Spitfire List
> Subject: RE: Spark plugs and dash refinishing
>
>
>
> For 'sparking' plugs I like Champion (don't recall the gap but whatever
> the
> manual sez is what I use).
>
> For the dash refinish I'll give you my .02:
> Staining is an art. The best thing to do is experiment on a spare piece
> of
> wood. Maybe you have some leftover veneer. The final 'look' will depend
> on
> how finely you sand it, if you use a colored filler, the color of the
> stain
> and finally, what the 'varnish' makes all that look like over top of it.
> Fine sanding is critical to a great finish. Use the finest grade sanding
> 'paper' you can get, maybe finish up with 000 steel wool or a 3M very
> fine
> sanding pad.
>
> I think using a contrasting grain filler looks nice (black for a light
> wood
> and tan for a dark wood). It really pops out the grain and makes it come
> alive.
>
> The final stain color (darkness) will depend on how many coats you put on,
> to a degree. There is a big difference between the first and second coat,
> diminishing returns thereafter. It also depends on how the wood absorbs
> the
> stain and what color the stain is , of course. Like I said, trial and
> error
> is the best indicator.
>
> The finish coat could be glossy polyurethane. I might try a tung oil
> finish, though. It is easy to apply and dries fairly quickly. To have a
> thick finish though, you need to reapply several coats. I apply this with
> my fingers, (no brush marks). I have used tung oil on several walnut
> shift
> knobs with no problems, it seems to be durable enough for an auto
> interior.
> (I never understood why the shift knobs weren't designed to match the dash
> color/finish, or vice versa.)
>
> One of the most important things you can do to end up with a great finish,
> is to make sure you don't get dust, dirt, etc. on the dash while it is
> drying. Try to put it someplace, under a cover if possible, to avoid
> airborne particles.
>
> Spark plugs are so much easier....but they don't look as good.
>
> Terrence Banbury
>
>
>
> > ----------
> > From: Bill Kelly[SMTP:bk54@erols.com]
> > Reply To: Bill Kelly
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 1:01 AM
> > To: Kevin Rhodes
> > Cc: Spitfire List
> > Subject: Re: Spark plugs and dash refinishing
> >
> >
> > Kevin,
> >
> > Um, if it's too light for your liking, stain it!
> >
> > Start with something light - Minwax Ipswitch Pine looks great on maple
> > in my Herald. Err on the side of yellow - every replacement dash I've
> > ever seen except mine :> is too brown.
> >
> > Give it a couple days to air our, then apply 6 coats of water-based
> > polyurethane, with a satin finish, such as Benjamin Moore "Stays Clear"
> > in the Low Lustre flavour. Use foam brushes. The water-based stuff won't
> > yellow or crack like standard polyurethane. Hand sand after coat 3
> > dries, with 150 grit paper. It's going to take 3 coats to seal the
> > grain. Allow at least half an hour between the first 3 coats, and an
> > hour for coat 3 to dry before sanding.
> >
> > Hand sand again after coat 5 dries, with a very fine grit paper. Give
> > coats 4 and 5 an hour each to dry.
> >
> > After coat 6, wait 24 hours before you put it in the car, to let the
> > finish fully harden.
> >
> > If you choose standard polyurethane, recognize that it will add a yellow
> > hue to the finish. Also, change all references to 'hours' to 'days'.
> >
>
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