Pat,
See my page about replacing the door panels for details about removing the
cranks and handles.
http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/door_panels.shtml
The rubber seal is held in place by clips. You can see 'em when you roll
the window down. Try removing the glass, then remove the clips from the
inside.
Don't see why covering the wheel arches would be a problem. You might have
to apply some heat to get it to conform to the arch shape. Use some good
spray adhesive like the Scotch 77 stuff.
Use an impact driver on the strike plates if you don't have a screwdriver
big enough to tackle the job. You can also try spraying some WD-40 or
whatever you use on the welded nuts once you have the door panels off, to
break through the rust if that's your problem.
I don't think the expanding foam would be such a good idea, unless you can
be certain that no moisture will be trapped and that no new moisture can get
in. That would be next to impossible with condensation. It would sure
deaden the noise, but in the long run, I think you would be sorry.
Good luck!
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Bowen, Patrick A RP2 <PABowen@sar.med.navy.mil>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 10:39 AM
Subject: Restoration Questions
>
> Couple quick questions towards the restoration in a hurry project.
>
> How do I get the Window cranks/handles off?
> How do I get the rubber seal at the top of the door off?
> How hard is it to recover the wheel arches yourself with regular vinyl?
> How do I get the door strike plates off? (yes I know you unscrew them, but
I
> don't have king kong at my house)
>
> Has anyone ever contemplated filling up the rocker panels with foam
> insulation (like you get at home depot in the aerosol can) I was thinking
> that might help keep moisture out, or would it suck it in??
>
> Thanks
> Patrick Bowen
>
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