I think this is wise. I was thinking of finding or making a little insulating
plate with
two studs. Between them would be one of those links, the type with a
rectangular plastic
body and two terminal tabs with mounting holes, one sticking out from each side.
I could mount it on the firewall just behind the starter relay. On one
terminal,
there would be a short jumper to the solenoid, and all the brown wires would go
to
the other terminal.
Note that the headlight circuits are NOT fused at all! One short circuit
anywhere
(e.g. under the bonnet), and ZAP! If you have not ever inspected your headlamp
wiring,
I recommend doing it, especially near the bonnet hinge.
By the way, I changed my alternator yesterday, and I was trying to figure out
the circuit. It looks like the thin brown wire to the three-pin socket has NO
connection to anything in the alternator. This is for a Lucas alternator on my
'72.
(Maybe they were allowing the possibility of using a different model alternator
that
needed the connection.) Im might be worthwhile to disconnect this wire at the
other end.
One less thing to short out...
>Listers,
>I'm thinking about putting in-line, Japanese-car type fusible links on the
>unfused brown wires (my car has 3) from the solenoid for some extra electrical
>protection. Has anyone done this to their Spit, or have an idea of what current
>maximum to allow for. Available sizes run from 30-80 amps or so (based on a
>visit to the Buss Fuses web site).
>TIA
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