Folks,
Some thoughts on the lead issue.
Since lead is two things, an anti knock additive and a lubricant for valve
stems,
why not induce something that solves both problems?
I realize that the valve faces (stellite, etc.) help with the valve FACE problem
too.
1. Adjust initial spark lead so as to eliminate pre-ignition.
2. Introduce a "top oil" lubricant such as Marvel Oil.
just a thought.
"Donald H. Locker" wrote:
> > As I understand it the options include the following:
> > 1 - changing the head
> > 2 - changing the valve seats
> > 3 - putting a 'thing' in the petrol tank
> > 4 - putting an in-line 'thing' in the fuel line
> > 5 - putting additives in with the fuel each time
> > 6 - using Lead replacement Petrol
> > 7 - just putting in unleaded
> >
> > My feelings on these options are:
> > 1 & 2 - as stated before - I really can't afford it yet
>
> OK, so we decide to wait for the full up treatment. For now.
>
> > 3 & 4 - how can they possibly work?
>
> Probably magic. Local witches could probably put as useful a spell on
> your fuel pump. I have yet to see a mechanism which does not need
> renewing (like refilling with a chemical) that actually works.
>
> > 5 & 6 - there are so many options & I undestand that once you choose one
> > type (potassium, sodium, manganese or phosphorus) you have stick with it. As
>
> My understanding is that potassium is likely to be available for a
> long time; manganese leaves some kinda evil deposits in combustion
> chambers, look like rust but isn't. I really don't know much about
> the other two, so I would tend to stay away from them.
>
> > I've just read an article which stated that 'All work on the proposed
> > British Standards for Lead Replacement Petrol has been ceased' apparently
> > because no-one can decide which way to go, how should I be able to decide
> > which to use?
>
> Technology development is getting too much like politics. "We can't
> find (or agree on what is) the perfect solution, so we'll give you no
> solution at all." And it'll cost like who-knows-what.
>
> > 7 - According to Kippings catalogue 'the simplest way to convert your car to
> > run on unleaded fuel is to put it into the tank'.
> >
> > So far I've always had good advice from Kippings and my intention is to do
> > the latter. I believe my engine to be original so it should have a decent
> > lead memory and I don't do great mileage or drive at high speed. Presumably
> > a few months into next year there should be better information as to which
> > options work the best.
>
> As long as you don't push it hard, the no-lead shouldn't be too bad.
> Valve recession tests are run at high loads (to accelerate the wear
> and let the tests run in reasonable time.) As long as you stay away
> from full throttle and 4000 to 6000 rpm, I would think your head
> should last just fine.
>
> >
> > Remember, I'm the 'mechanically ignorant' one so please be gentle with me
>
> Not so ignorant as to ask advice!
>
> > and my level of knowledge but I'd really appreciate hearing some other views
> > on this.
> >
> > Sue
> >
> > '68 MkIII
> >
> > PS. I tried a tankful of unleaded out of curiosity a few months ago and I
> > didn't notice any difference in it's running or performance.
>
> If the petrol is properly formulated and delivered, you should notice
> no difference. Octane prevents pinking; everything else is just there
> for the ride. My views.
>
> Donald.
--
Rawchester, Neu Yawk
Sptifire MkII "HardWay" FC68436L Red, what else?
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